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The Firm Feel is about the only bar that's "close" to looking factory, most others are mounted to the axle itself,......a 3/4" bar is about ideal for the rear,....add a 1 1/4 up front along with some 1.00 torsion bars, along with some good shocks if you want to improve your cars handling, along with some poly mounts/bushings

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Realize if you add a rear bar without upgrading the front your gonna wind up with a car that oversteers & is generally evil handling... The front suspension needs to be addressed first...

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I think the 3/4" rear bar would compliment what he has now. Those cars really needed a rear bar for balance.
I had the 69 RR large factory bar on the front of my hot rod. It didn't like turning with enthusiasm. Adding the rear bar made a big difference. I like it much better now.

I would add the Firm Feel bar to what he has. The biggest thing he could do to increase the stability of the car would be adding subframe connectors. That chassis is floppy! Tightening the chassis would make a night and day difference.

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Thank you for the encouragement and advice. My Road Runner also has the large diameter bar paired with poly-graphite end links and I'm hoping the addition of the rear bar will really bring the handling up a notch. Most of the body roll certainly seems to come from the rear of the car, not the front.

I'm not really interested in installing subframe connectors. I don't want to cut the floors or weld anything. Bottom line is I'm just trying to get a more pleasant and confidently-handling cruiser from the addition of the rear bar. I'm not trying to go autocrossing (not just yet, anyway).

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I used the FF rear bar on a '70E. Installation was straightforward per the instructions. I did use some spacers to slightly lengthen the links to position the bar "over the hump". I'm using it with 3" TTI pipes and it all fits well. I use it with FF's larger front bar and 1" Tbars. The car handles great.

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I'm not really interested in installing subframe connectors. I don't want to cut the floors or weld anything. Bottom line is I'm just trying to get a more pleasant and confidently-handling cruiser from the addition of the rear bar. I'm not trying to go autocrossing (not just yet, anyway).

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there are lots of subframe connectors out there that are bolt in - no welding or cutting up the floors at all - ex mancini racing and mopar performance are some of the few that sell them and would definatly help with firming up your ride

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I'm not really interested in installing subframe connectors. I don't want to cut the floors or weld anything. Bottom line is I'm just trying to get a more pleasant and confidently-handling cruiser from the addition of the rear bar. I'm not trying to go autocrossing (not just yet, anyway).

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there are lots of subframe connectors out there that are bolt in - no welding or cutting up the floors at all - ex mancini racing and mopar performance are some of the few that sell them and would definatly help with firming up your ride

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I used the FF rear bar on a '70E. Installation was straightforward per the instructions. I did use some spacers to slightly lengthen the links to position the bar "over the hump". I'm using it with 3" TTI pipes and it all fits well. I use it with FF's larger front bar and 1" Tbars. The car handles great.

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Thanks! This is the kind of first-hand knowledge I am seeking. I have the 2.5" TTI tailpipes and was hopeful that the bar would clear the exhaust. After checking out the website pictures and comparing them to the car, I am reasonably sure there won't be any clearance issues.

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Sssnake383 – If you decide to go the extra mile and get some weld-in subframe connectors, we offer a set that bolts in at the rear and only requires a little bit of welding at the front. These are much stronger than any bolt in subframe connector.





http://www.hotchkis.net/subframe_connectors_mopar_bbody_.html

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Well,
Usually if you add a rear bar the front bar gets bigger to avoid that power oversteer that was mentioned above. If your car has the "large" front bar then a rear bar may clean up handling. You by NO means have to increase torsion bar size for anti-roll bars to work.

So buy and mount the bar and go somewhere safe, pull a sharp corner and get into the gas halfway round the corner. If the rear tires spin and the rear end comes around, you need a bigger front bar. Here's hoping that won't happen. It did happen to me with a '70 Buick GS455 as a 20-year-old and as you can tell it made quite an impression.

R.

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