|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: 67Satty]
#1014336
06/16/11 02:38 PM
06/16/11 02:38 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,636
Nashville, TN
MOPARMIKE69
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,636
Nashville, TN
|
1. Put oil in the engine
2. Pull distributor, mark its location for re-install.
3. Insert primer rod through dist hole and seat in oil pump
4. Connect drill and run it in counter clock wise for several minutes
5. Remove rod and replace disributor
6. Start car
I am sure there are other little things you can do and others will point them out, but I have done it this way for 40 years and never had a dry start or problem.
69 Road Runner vert
69 GTX hard top
70 Road Runner 4 speed
70 Hemi Cuda vert
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: Andrewh]
#1014338
06/16/11 03:11 PM
06/16/11 03:11 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
|
Quote:
having just done this for feets, it is a bit fresh in my mind.
mark the distributer in two places to the block.
pop the cap
mark the rotor point.
pull the distributer
mark the slot orienation so you can put that back right.
pull the slot/gear
then spin up with a drill counter clockwise to prime.
then put the gear back and make sure the slot lines up where you marked.
then you can get the distributer back in right.
And make sure that the piston is on Top Dead center firing both times.
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: 67Satty]
#1014342
06/16/11 03:49 PM
06/16/11 03:49 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,138
East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
RoadRunner
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,138
East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
|
Use a 5/16" hex rod about 2' long, and at least a 1/2" drill. I burned up a 3/8" drill pretty quick when I tried using it.
68 Road Runner (383/4speed, post car w/decor pkg) - Major Project
69 Road Runner w/472 Hemi & 4 speed.
70 Challenger R/T SE EF8 w/ V9J, U - A32 - Major Project
2023 Ford Mach 1
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: mickm]
#1014345
06/16/11 04:57 PM
06/16/11 04:57 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
|
Take plugs out, bump starter over at the starter relay till you feel pressure building on your thumb on #1 cyl (front/dr side) then turn the crank more cw w a breaker bar & 1&1/4" socket till the timing marks (the slit) are at TDC then go (1) more complete revolution back to TDC which is overlap on #1 & prime it & check that the pass valvetrain is being oiled then turn it still going cw (1) more complete revolution back to TDC plus a quarter turn (5.694") around the circumference & preoil some more & check that the dr valvetrain is getting oil. Back the dampener up CCW 5.694" to TDC & a bit more to 10BTDC. Set the dist in so the vac can is roughly in it's correct location (has room to b turned each way) AND the rotor is pointing at the #1 cap terminal as it's shown in the OE factory manual and plug #1 plug wire into that cap terminal and if the rotor is not in the OE location reclock the inter shaft till it is then route the rest of em CCW from that point 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 then w the dist somewhat snugged take the cap back off & turn the dist housing slightly till the magnet is dead even w the nearest reluctor tooth checking that the rotor is still under or nearly under #1 cap terminal. I would then take off the rocker arm assy's/pushrods & goop (or re goop) the lifter bottoms/cam lobes as all that turning will take off quite abit of precious lube & even if solids your adjustment will not ch just from a carefull R&R. Read "break in secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com. 1 guy to add trans fluid 1 guy to man the dist/tim light 1 guy on top to check for fuel leaks 1 guy underneath to check for addit'l leaks You in dr seat to goose the throttle watch the gauges shout orders. shop fan in front of rad, front end jacked way up for air pockets rear tires just off the ground on jack stands and a heavy duty hyd floor jack under/just touching the bottom of the 3rd mem for addit'l safety, start it in gear to load it, any probs shut it off immed/fix it/restart to 2500 for 30 minutes vary the rpm, goose it repeatedly, light breakin springs, breakin oil, #1 #1 #1 lifters on mockup should fall back onto the lobes under their own weight w a resounding "thunk" in lifter bores cleaned w brake kleen/lightly lubed w WD40 when you lift each one up off of it's lobe w your finger & let it go & if not, MUST hone the bore, batt charged,several shots of gas w accel pump EDIT stat OUT
Last edited by RapidRobert; 06/16/11 08:13 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: 67Satty]
#1014346
06/16/11 05:02 PM
06/16/11 05:02 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
|
Quote:
OK, again thanks everyone. One more thing I'm not clear on though. The distributor and gear are out, have never been in yet.
So do I still need to worry about TDC? Or is that something for me to straighten out before install the distributor and rotor and I fire up the motor that has nothing to do with priming the motor with oil?
Again, thanks for your patience everyone.
If the distributor has never been in then you have it made. Prime with your half inch drill and primer rod making sure that the drill is turning Counter clockwise. Turn the engine over a couple of times during the priming to make sure that you are getting oil to both heads - Only one side oils at a time.
When primed. With your finger in number one spark plg hole turn engine over till yo feel compression and then very slowly bring to TDC. Now insert the intermediate with the slot parallel to the engine center line. Now insert the distributor taking note of where the rotor points. Make sure to put the number 1 plug wire in the terminal that the rotor is pointing to and follow th firing order cc around the cap.
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: MoparforLife]
#1014347
06/16/11 05:40 PM
06/16/11 05:40 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,271
Vista, California
67Satty
OP
pro stock
|
OP
pro stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,271
Vista, California
|
This is great stuff everyone, thanks so much!  Now I just need to get a 1/2 drill and the 5/16" hex. Too bad my wife already got me my father's day present. Maybe she will give me the gift of time to work on my car that day too. I'll probably have some more questions then. Thanks again everyone!
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: MonGoo$e]
#1014349
06/16/11 06:52 PM
06/16/11 06:52 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
|
Quote:
I bought a small block priming rod several years ago from Summit. I've used it on 4 different motors. nice to have.
Same rod
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: 67Satty]
#1014351
06/16/11 10:51 PM
06/16/11 10:51 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,497
Austin, TX
HemiDave
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,497
Austin, TX
|
If you are not using a roller cam, make SURE you use the specialty break-in oil!! If you don't you may be tearing the engine down again.  Dave
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: 67Satty]
#1014354
06/17/11 11:45 AM
06/17/11 11:45 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,067
Irving, TX
feets
Senior Management
|
Senior Management
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,067
Irving, TX
|
A few things people haven't mentioned...
You can use a 3/8 drill but it will need to be 120 volt. Cordless drills don't have the torque to spin the pump fast enough to build much pressure.
I like using my heavy duty 1/2" Milwaukee drill. It only spins 800 rpm with a 14 amp motor. The removeable handle that goes over the snout of the drill is real handy.
Go easy on the drill. If you run the drill at full speed and it slams full pressure on the oil pump it will try to rip the drill out of your hands. Spin it up at a moderate speed and allow the drill to take up the load.
I use a piece of 5/16" hex stock as a priming rod. It's dirt cheap. If you take this approach be sure to put it down in the hole for a test fit. Make a note of where the rod passes through the distributor bushing in the block. Wrap some tape around the stock so it doesn't chew up the bushing.
When Andrewh and I prelubed the Imperial it simply wasn't possible to get to the crank well enough to turn the engine over. After we built up oil pressure I jumped the starter relay to turn the engine with the starter while he continued priming with the drill.
We are brothers and sisters doing time on the planet for better or worse. I'll take the better, if you don't mind.
- Stu Harmon
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: feets]
#1014355
06/17/11 11:56 AM
06/17/11 11:56 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
|
Quote:
When Andrewh and I prelubed the Imperial it simply wasn't possible to get to the crank well enough to turn the engine over. After we built up oil pressure we jumped the starter relay and turned the engine with the starter.
This is actually how I do it all the time. And if you use a remote starter button at the relay you can actually keep the drill running while you turn the engine over.
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: 67Satty]
#1014357
06/17/11 12:11 PM
06/17/11 12:11 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
|
Quote:
Again, thanks for all the tips and info everyone!
I have another stupid question. If I prime the motor one day, then wait a few days or a week or whatever to start the motor, do I have to prime again before I start it?
In other words, does it all drain back down requiring me to reprime if I don't get to starting the motor for awhile? Or, is it primed once it's done once? Thanks!
Do you reprime after you have left a running engine sit a few days????? 
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: MoparforLife]
#1014358
06/17/11 12:18 PM
06/17/11 12:18 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,179
California
mickm
master
|
master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,179
California
|
Quote:
Quote:
Again, thanks for all the tips and info everyone!
I have another stupid question. If I prime the motor one day, then wait a few days or a week or whatever to start the motor, do I have to prime again before I start it?
In other words, does it all drain back down requiring me to reprime if I don't get to starting the motor for awhile? Or, is it primed once it's done once? Thanks!
Do you reprime after you have left a running engine sit a few days?????
in other words...
no. 
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: 67Satty]
#1014360
06/17/11 01:05 PM
06/17/11 01:05 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
|
Quote:
That's what I thought but something about firing up something I've got $4000+ into and get be wrecked with one wrong move makes me overly paranoid.
How much is invested other vehicles that are left sitting for days and months on end???? Yours or other people. Vehicles sit for long periods and fired right up.
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: 67Satty]
#1014363
06/28/11 10:45 PM
06/28/11 10:45 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
|
turn it till the dist rotor is at #6 w timing marks at TDC & run the drill again & see if the pass side will now oil
Last edited by RapidRobert; 06/28/11 10:47 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: Priming a New Motor with Oil
[Re: 67Satty]
#1014364
06/29/11 12:02 AM
06/29/11 12:02 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,195
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
|
I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,195
Bend,OR USA
|
Quote:
OK guys I have another question after priming it with my drill and hex tool. I got decent oil pressure to show up on my gauge pretty quickly.
What I'm wondering now is shouldn't I be seeing some oil showing up on the top of my heads somewhere with the valve covers off while I am doing this?
I had the drill spinning CCW and I tried rotating the motor over by hand to different positions several times. My passenger side head looks dry as a bone and my drivers side head looks oily (but I can't tell if that is from when I added the oil).
If it makes any difference, I am running the 440source rockers and 7 quart pan (with 7 quarts added).
Thanks for any advice!
Pull all of the spark plugs out and remove both valve covers, start priming the motor and while priming it turn the crankshaft over clockwise very slowly until you hear the drill motor noise change, that is when the oil will be going up the oil passages to the rocker shafts, one at a time  Once the drill motor sounds different stop and let it run the oil in the shafts until you like what you see or when it starts leaking onto the floor  The rocker shafts are oil once every camshaft revolution or once for every other crankshaft revolution I now have my camshafts grooved all the way around on the number four cam journal so they will oil the rocker shafts full time lots of warnings on this post, some are valid and some are internet myths
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
|
|
|
|
|
Ron
