Looking to see if my '72 340 would be 'drilled' or setup for a 4speed conversion? Are they all?'

Thanks!

I guess it is, but no worries, the pilot bearing that sits in the torque converter ring is always available!

R.

Use a pilot bearing that is used in the Magnums. AS in the above it fits in the shout where the convertor hub sits. Thay last a whole lot longer.

that works with a 23spline a833?

thanks guys

Every factory crank I've seen that was drilled also had the bushing installed. If your crank doesn't have a bushing, measure the depth of the hole, it may not be deep enough. In that case use the late model roller bearing and use a cut off wheel to shorten the input shaft. Be sure to chamfer the edges. This isn't the best or preferred way to do things, but it will work.

My 72 340 (steel crank) was finish-reamed, but did not have the bushing installed. It had been turned at some point when the engine was rebuilt, so perhaps they COULD have removed it, but there was no need to unless it's going to be replaced.

I've got a small pile of cranks that are rough-drilled w/o being finish-reamed. These could be used with the Magnum-style roller pilot without any work on the trans input shaft. The only cranks that I've seen that aren't even rough-drilled are some late 70's cast crank 440's. Those WOULD require clipping off a little bit of the trans input to work properly. You COULD do some rough drilling on the crank, but it would take at least a 7/8" drill bit and those aren't easy to come by.

IMHO, If the crank isn't finish reamed, get the Maggie bearing. I've had bad luck with the "special" bushings made for non-finish-reamed cranks. Two have loosened up in the crank allowing the trans input to wobble, wearing out a trans input bearing retainer.

Clair

I don't know about the 340 crank but my 440 crank was drilled to depth but not reamed.
It won't accept a standard bushing or an undersized bushing.
This is what i'm using.

My 78 360 was drilled and reamed for the bushing but no bushing was installed. I was told the engine came from a Ram Charger and I believe they all had autos.

Anyway, it accepted a stock bushing. I just recently had to replace my clutch because one of the fingers on the pressure plate broke. I removed the bronze bushing and went with the late model needle bearing that fits the torque converter register. Looks like the picture above but instead of a bushing it had a needle bearing.

The one thing I noticed putting the car back together was that the snout on my A833 fit into the bearing before the splice reached the disk. This guided the splines into the disk much more precisely making much less wiggling and jiggeling getting the tranny seated into the bellhousing.