Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: migsBIG]
#1001637
05/29/11 07:44 PM
05/29/11 07:44 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,325 Truckville, the capital of NY
85_Ram_4speed
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,325
Truckville, the capital of NY
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Around here it costs about $150-175 to narrow a rear---using the stock ends over, rather than buying new ends. Then you have to buy axles---I usually get them from Dr Diff (Cass)--I want to say around $350ish.
Then If necesarry add in gears and suregrip---but If you buy a good rear with a suregrip and gears you seek from the get go, just figure another $500 on top of your purchase price of the rear to get it to the correct length.
Plus, buy buying a longer rear and narrowing it, it'll be straight rather than some bent up used up factory stuff. Used factory rears are almost never straight. Your bearings will thank you later. Do any welding you have to do before the ends are cut and rewelded on. Adding a backbrace after the rear is narrowed is a sure way to get it back out of alignment.
The other benifit is you can get a wheel and tire you want to use and simply have the rear cut down to fit those so everything fits ideal. Just becareful though, because if your like some of us that get bored and want to change wheels, you dont want to lock yourself into a specific sized/backspace wheel.
Outcast Dodge guy.
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: mopar_man]
#1001640
05/30/11 02:09 AM
05/30/11 02:09 AM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493 Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog
Striving for excellence
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Striving for excellence
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
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Quote:
Just sold an 8 3/4 from my old 66 coronet 440. we put it in a 74 dart . All we had to do is pry out the springs on the Dart about 3/4 - 1 in. on either side . It was no big deal and doesn't affect anything. If A bodies 8 3/4s are hard to find , this is the way to go .
Sorry man.. This is a hacked way to go about it. Spreading springs like this isn't a good idea. The stock A body rear shackle has mediocre strength to begin with. Now as the axle travels up and down in normal street operation, shackles could bind and break. Plus, the front spring bushing has a "twist" added to it and this surely could result in rapid bushing failure.
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: Kern Dog]
#1001641
05/30/11 08:05 AM
05/30/11 08:05 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,664 Newfoundland
mopar_man
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,664
Newfoundland
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Quote:
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Just sold an 8 3/4 from my old 66 coronet 440. we put it in a 74 dart . All we had to do is pry out the springs on the Dart about 3/4 - 1 in. on either side . It was no big deal and doesn't affect anything. If A bodies 8 3/4s are hard to find , this is the way to go .
Sorry man.. This is a hacked way to go about it. Spreading springs like this isn't a good idea. The stock A body rear shackle has mediocre strength to begin with. Now as the axle travels up and down in normal street operation, shackles could bind and break. Plus, the front spring bushing has a "twist" added to it and this surely could result in rapid bushing failure.
Sorry man but thats an engineering way of thinking and really not in the real world . I've done this since the early 70s and not one of the cars I've done has had an issue. As a matter of fact, two or three of the A bods are still being used. don't know if you ever have done something like this , its not like you have to put a hydraulic ram in between the two springs. all you don't is pull out with your hands so the center bolt drops in the hole in the pad . Your entitled to your opinion though and maybe more will agree with you but its my opinion that its not an issue.
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: mopar_man]
#1001642
05/30/11 09:42 AM
05/30/11 09:42 AM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,550 Michigan
Kiddart
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,550
Michigan
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I have to disagree, there is a right way and a wrong way, Pulling the springsapart is the wrong way. I guess if you dont care how the rear suspenion reacts under load or want teh best sixty foot times it doesnt matter. Or in the back of your mind driving down the road and the leaf breaks, digging into thepavement and sending the car on its roof, then I am sure your suspension will be just fine.
My two cents
Thank you Kiddart
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: mopar_man]
#1001643
05/30/11 09:44 AM
05/30/11 09:44 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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Quote:
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Just sold an 8 3/4 from my old 66 coronet 440. we put it in a 74 dart . All we had to do is pry out the springs on the Dart about 3/4 - 1 in. on either side . It was no big deal and doesn't affect anything. If A bodies 8 3/4s are hard to find , this is the way to go .
Sorry man.. This is a hacked way to go about it. Spreading springs like this isn't a good idea. The stock A body rear shackle has mediocre strength to begin with. Now as the axle travels up and down in normal street operation, shackles could bind and break. Plus, the front spring bushing has a "twist" added to it and this surely could result in rapid bushing failure.
Sorry man but thats an engineering way of thinking and really not in the real world . I've done this since the early 70s and not one of the cars I've done has had an issue. As a matter of fact, two or three of the A bods are still being used. don't know if you ever have done something like this , its not like you have to put a hydraulic ram in between the two springs. all you don't is pull out with your hands so the center bolt drops in the hole in the pad . Your entitled to your opinion though and maybe more will agree with you but its my opinion that its not an issue.
every one calls this the shadetree hickabilly way of doing it
I have done at least 5 A-bodys this way and never a problem either,the last one I did have moser cut down to A-body specs
I have all but stoped suggesting it here cause of the negative replys about how bad it is or wrong it is to suggest such a thing,but it is a very cost effective way to get r done
when you use a b-body 8 3/4 with 44" spring perch centers you only have to pull it 1/2" each way to drop it in the 43" a-body spring spaceing
worn bushings everthing i have is worn out anyways
I would not rule it out,might even run across that 8 3/4 with the 44" perch centers first when looking...I did
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1001644
05/30/11 11:12 AM
05/30/11 11:12 AM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,216 Under My Car
Mopar_Country
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,216
Under My Car
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Quote:
every one calls this the shadetree hickabilly way of doing it
Well isn't it? It's not that big of a deal to move the perches and maintain the proper geometry of the suspension.
I can see it would work, but it can't be good for the suspension. Side pressure on the bushings and shackles, then twist on the springs when tightening the U bolts. No thanks, not for me.
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1001645
05/30/11 12:43 PM
05/30/11 12:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,664 Newfoundland
mopar_man
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,664
Newfoundland
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Quote:
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Just sold an 8 3/4 from my old 66 coronet 440. we put it in a 74 dart . All we had to do is pry out the springs on the Dart about 3/4 - 1 in. on either side . It was no big deal and doesn't affect anything. If A bodies 8 3/4s are hard to find , this is the way to go .
Sorry man.. This is a hacked way to go about it. Spreading springs like this isn't a good idea. The stock A body rear shackle has mediocre strength to begin with. Now as the axle travels up and down in normal street operation, shackles could bind and break. Plus, the front spring bushing has a "twist" added to it and this surely could result in rapid bushing failure.
Sorry man but thats an engineering way of thinking and really not in the real world . I've done this since the early 70s and not one of the cars I've done has had an issue. As a matter of fact, two or three of the A bods are still being used. don't know if you ever have done something like this , its not like you have to put a hydraulic ram in between the two springs. all you don't is pull out with your hands so the center bolt drops in the hole in the pad . Your entitled to your opinion though and maybe more will agree with you but its my opinion that its not an issue.
every one calls this the shadetree hickabilly way of doing it
I have done at least 5 A-bodys this way and never a problem either,the last one I did have moser cut down to A-body specs
I have all but stoped suggesting it here cause of the negative replys about how bad it is or wrong it is to suggest such a thing,but it is a very cost effective way to get r done
when you use a b-body 8 3/4 with 44" spring perch centers you only have to pull it 1/2" each way to drop it in the 43" a-body spring spaceing
worn bushings everthing i have is worn out anyways
I would not rule it out,might even run across that 8 3/4 with the 44" perch centers first when looking...I did
Thank you Mike , At least there is someone else who have done this and had no issues . I see it not much different then when a V8 warms that the "v" of the engine wants to spread wider and if you remove the intake and install an aluminum dome someone will say your changing the geometrics of everything ....funny thing is there are a lot of engines going around without the original intake. Maybe its better I say nothing and forget about helping some guy save a few dollars when he may need it for rent or food . After 40 yrs working at this stuff , I know its not the perfect way and if the op had the welding equipment and the know-how, i would proberly have told him to grind the perches off and move them in 3/4" but I don't see it as that necessary or a safety issue.
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: mopar_man]
#1001646
05/30/11 02:00 PM
05/30/11 02:00 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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Quote:
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Just sold an 8 3/4 from my old 66 coronet 440. we put it in a 74 dart . All we had to do is pry out the springs on the Dart about 3/4 - 1 in. on either side . It was no big deal and doesn't affect anything. If A bodies 8 3/4s are hard to find , this is the way to go .
Sorry man.. This is a hacked way to go about it. Spreading springs like this isn't a good idea. The stock A body rear shackle has mediocre strength to begin with. Now as the axle travels up and down in normal street operation, shackles could bind and break. Plus, the front spring bushing has a "twist" added to it and this surely could result in rapid bushing failure.
Sorry man but thats an engineering way of thinking and really not in the real world . I've done this since the early 70s and not one of the cars I've done has had an issue. As a matter of fact, two or three of the A bods are still being used. don't know if you ever have done something like this , its not like you have to put a hydraulic ram in between the two springs. all you don't is pull out with your hands so the center bolt drops in the hole in the pad . Your entitled to your opinion though and maybe more will agree with you but its my opinion that its not an issue.
every one calls this the shadetree hickabilly way of doing it
I have done at least 5 A-bodys this way and never a problem either,the last one I did have moser cut down to A-body specs
I have all but stoped suggesting it here cause of the negative replys about how bad it is or wrong it is to suggest such a thing,but it is a very cost effective way to get r done
when you use a b-body 8 3/4 with 44" spring perch centers you only have to pull it 1/2" each way to drop it in the 43" a-body spring spaceing
worn bushings everthing i have is worn out anyways
I would not rule it out,might even run across that 8 3/4 with the 44" perch centers first when looking...I did
Thank you Mike , At least there is someone else who have done this and had no issues . I see it not much different then when a V8 warms that the "v" of the engine wants to spread wider and if you remove the intake and install an aluminum dome someone will say your changing the geometrics of everything ....funny thing is there are a lot of engines going around without the original intake. Maybe its better I say nothing and forget about helping some guy save a few dollars when he may need it for rent or food . After 40 yrs working at this stuff , I know its not the perfect way and if the op had the welding equipment and the know-how, i would proberly have told him to grind the perches off and move them in 3/4" but I don't see it as that necessary or a safety issue.
yea no pizzing match from me..run what ya brung
i did it that way cause i did not have the welder and grinder and all that back then,I was 17 when an old timer showed me how to do it
so I guess the A-body 8 3/4 in my 88 440 truck that tucks 12" rims with 29x15x15 M/Ts are all wrong and not the way its done either
but at least the spring perches are the same 43" centers as a-bodys and trucks right?
and I guess using a truck engine bracket along with a car engine bracke to swap a sb v-8 into a /6 k frame is all wrong and shouldnt be done either
man,dont see how all the negative nellys get anything done on the cheap
oh and my last 73 duster had a B-body 8 3/4 with the spring spred to 44" centers
never had any traction,handling,bushings or shackle problems..it ran in the mid 13s with a sb v-8 on a /6 k frame with a short shaft 727 from a 4x4 truck
the a-body 8 3/4 in the truck looks good to me,so did my b-body 8 3/4 in my duster
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 05/30/11 02:02 PM.
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: Mopar_Country]
#1001647
05/30/11 02:08 PM
05/30/11 02:08 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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Quote:
Quote:
every one calls this the shadetree hickabilly way of doing it
Well isn't it? It's not that big of a deal to move the perches and maintain the proper geometry of the suspension.
I can see it would work, but it can't be good for the suspension. Side pressure on the bushings and shackles, then twist on the springs when tightening the U bolts. No thanks, not for me.
why yes,i guess it is...but so am I,guess i do it the cheap way best i can with what i got when i gots it
my title before "gotta want it" was "shadetreehickabilly"
its all good,everyone can at me while I enjoy my mopar I built the way i want it with parts I had around in the yard
gots mo $ for gas that way
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: RobX4406]
#1001649
05/30/11 02:55 PM
05/30/11 02:55 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,216 Under My Car
Mopar_Country
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,216
Under My Car
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Quote:
I'm sure all the engineers here also pull the rear all the way down, mandrel the housing, to make sure the end doesn't get out of square when welding on the fresh spring perches too... right?
I did. There is more than one way to skin a cat, and yes I have been guilty in my younger days of doing such things when I didn't have the means to do it correctly. "Correctly" being the key word.
To each their own and no flaming from me, I am merely pointing out to the OP the correct way to do it if he chooses the B body route.
I also see it as a learning curve for me when I do something. The rear in my car is a B body rear and after some reading and learning I elected to do it. I learned a lot from my hands on experience. Fun too.
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#1001650
07/06/14 01:43 PM
07/06/14 01:43 PM
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1 Oregon
duster1dave
member
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member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1
Oregon
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8 3/4" rear end widths, drum-to-drum: A BODY '66-'72= 57 1/8"
B BODY '62-'63= 58 1/2" (And '64 Max Wedge) '64 = 60 7/8" (Exc.Max Wedge) '65-'67= 59 1/2" '68-'70= 60 1/8" '71-'74= 63" '71-'73 wagon= 64 3/8"
C BODY
'65-'69= 61.75" '70-'71= 63.0" (Chrysler & Fury) '70-'73= 64 3/8" (and '69 wagon)
IMPERIAL '65-'66= 61 15/16" '67-'69= 62 5/16" '70-'71= 59 3/4" '72-'73= 64 9/16"
E BODY '70-'74= 61 5/8"
A100 '65-'70= 61 3/4"
D100 '65-'71= 63 15/16" '72-'74= 64 3/8"
Last edited by duster1dave; 07/06/14 01:47 PM.
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1001652
07/06/14 02:45 PM
07/06/14 02:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346 Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi
Penguin-hating Ginger
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Penguin-hating Ginger
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
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Wow, this thread is old...
Nearly as old as you.
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: OzHemi]
#1001653
07/06/14 03:04 PM
07/06/14 03:04 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375 SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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Quote:
Nearly as old as you.
I had only been on the forum for like 5 months.
So, since people don't like it when an old thread goes unresolved with an update. Last year I bought an A body 8 3/4 I found on CL. It had a 489 carrier, open 2.73. gears and was drum to drum. A couple weeks ago I tore it apart and I just sent it out this weekend to be built up by a friend of mine. It's getting 3.55 gears, an Eaton TrueTrac, bbp axles, and all of its bearings and seals replaced.
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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1001654
07/06/14 07:09 PM
07/06/14 07:09 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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I put another B-body 8 3/4 in an A-body. and a 94 jeep Cherokee 8 1/4 in an 74 A-body. (same 43" perch center but axle under spring) and a 94 jeep 8 1/4 in a d-100 to tubb it for 12" rims since this post. glad to see you make progress on getting the 8 3/4 done.
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