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Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: migsBIG] #1001637
05/29/11 07:44 PM
05/29/11 07:44 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,325
Truckville, the capital of NY
85_Ram_4speed Offline
master
85_Ram_4speed  Offline
master

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,325
Truckville, the capital of NY
Around here it costs about $150-175 to narrow a rear---using the stock ends over, rather than buying new ends. Then you have to buy axles---I usually get them from Dr Diff (Cass)--I want to say around $350ish.

Then If necesarry add in gears and suregrip---but If you buy a good rear with a suregrip and gears you seek from the get go, just figure another $500 on top of your purchase price of the rear to get it to the correct length.

Plus, buy buying a longer rear and narrowing it, it'll be straight rather than some bent up used up factory stuff. Used factory rears are almost never straight. Your bearings will thank you later. Do any welding you have to do before the ends are cut and rewelded on. Adding a backbrace after the rear is narrowed is a sure way to get it back out of alignment.

The other benifit is you can get a wheel and tire you want to use and simply have the rear cut down to fit those so everything fits ideal. Just becareful though, because if your like some of us that get bored and want to change wheels, you dont want to lock yourself into a specific sized/backspace wheel.


Outcast Dodge guy.
Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: 85_Ram_4speed] #1001638
05/29/11 08:00 PM
05/29/11 08:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,664
Newfoundland
M
mopar_man Offline
master
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Newfoundland
Just sold an 8 3/4 from my old 66 coronet 440. we put it in a 74 dart . All we had to do is pry out the springs on the Dart about 3/4 - 1 in. on either side . It was no big deal and doesn't affect anything. If A bodies 8 3/4s are hard to find , this is the way to go .

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: mopar_man] #1001639
05/30/11 01:39 AM
05/30/11 01:39 AM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Thanks for all the help guys! Almost every time I post a thread about how to do something or anything about a car, I usually save it to my folder specifically designed for my Dart

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: mopar_man] #1001640
05/30/11 02:09 AM
05/30/11 02:09 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog Offline
Striving for excellence
Kern Dog  Offline
Striving for excellence

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Quote:

Just sold an 8 3/4 from my old 66 coronet 440. we put it in a 74 dart . All we had to do is pry out the springs on the Dart about 3/4 - 1 in. on either side . It was no big deal and doesn't affect anything. If A bodies 8 3/4s are hard to find , this is the way to go .




Sorry man.. This is a hacked way to go about it. Spreading springs like this isn't a good idea. The stock A body rear shackle has mediocre strength to begin with. Now as the axle travels up and down in normal street operation, shackles could bind and break. Plus, the front spring bushing has a "twist" added to it and this surely could result in rapid bushing failure.

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: Kern Dog] #1001641
05/30/11 08:05 AM
05/30/11 08:05 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,664
Newfoundland
M
mopar_man Offline
master
mopar_man  Offline
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M

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,664
Newfoundland
Quote:

Quote:

Just sold an 8 3/4 from my old 66 coronet 440. we put it in a 74 dart . All we had to do is pry out the springs on the Dart about 3/4 - 1 in. on either side . It was no big deal and doesn't affect anything. If A bodies 8 3/4s are hard to find , this is the way to go .




Sorry man.. This is a hacked way to go about it. Spreading springs like this isn't a good idea. The stock A body rear shackle has mediocre strength to begin with. Now as the axle travels up and down in normal street operation, shackles could bind and break. Plus, the front spring bushing has a "twist" added to it and this surely could result in rapid bushing failure.




Sorry man but thats an engineering way of thinking and really not in the real world . I've done this since the early 70s and not one of the cars I've done has had an issue. As a matter of fact, two or three of the A bods are still being used. don't know if you ever have done something like this , its not like you have to put a hydraulic ram in between the two springs. all you don't is pull out with your hands so the center bolt drops in the hole in the pad .
Your entitled to your opinion though and maybe more will agree with you but its my opinion that its not an issue.

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: mopar_man] #1001642
05/30/11 09:42 AM
05/30/11 09:42 AM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,550
Michigan
K
Kiddart Offline
pro stock
Kiddart  Offline
pro stock
K

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,550
Michigan
I have to disagree, there is a right way and a wrong way, Pulling the springsapart is the wrong way. I guess if you dont care how the rear suspenion reacts under load or want teh best sixty foot times it doesnt matter. Or in the back of your mind driving down the road and the leaf breaks, digging into thepavement and sending the car on its roof, then I am sure your suspension will be just fine.

My two cents


Thank you
Kiddart
Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: mopar_man] #1001643
05/30/11 09:44 AM
05/30/11 09:44 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
S
scratchnfotraction Offline
I Live Here
scratchnfotraction  Offline
I Live Here
S

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Just sold an 8 3/4 from my old 66 coronet 440. we put it in a 74 dart . All we had to do is pry out the springs on the Dart about 3/4 - 1 in. on either side . It was no big deal and doesn't affect anything. If A bodies 8 3/4s are hard to find , this is the way to go .




Sorry man.. This is a hacked way to go about it. Spreading springs like this isn't a good idea. The stock A body rear shackle has mediocre strength to begin with. Now as the axle travels up and down in normal street operation, shackles could bind and break. Plus, the front spring bushing has a "twist" added to it and this surely could result in rapid bushing failure.




Sorry man but thats an engineering way of thinking and really not in the real world . I've done this since the early 70s and not one of the cars I've done has had an issue. As a matter of fact, two or three of the A bods are still being used. don't know if you ever have done something like this , its not like you have to put a hydraulic ram in between the two springs. all you don't is pull out with your hands so the center bolt drops in the hole in the pad .
Your entitled to your opinion though and maybe more will agree with you but its my opinion that its not an issue.







every one calls this the shadetree hickabilly way of doing it

I have done at least 5 A-bodys this way and never a problem either,the last one I did have moser cut down to A-body specs

I have all but stoped suggesting it here cause of the negative replys about how bad it is or wrong it is to suggest such a thing,but it is a very cost effective way to get r done

when you use a b-body 8 3/4 with 44" spring perch centers you only have to pull it 1/2" each way to drop it in the 43" a-body spring spaceing

worn bushings everthing i have is worn out anyways

I would not rule it out,might even run across that 8 3/4 with the 44" perch centers first when looking...I did


Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1001644
05/30/11 11:12 AM
05/30/11 11:12 AM
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,216
Under My Car
Mopar_Country Offline
pro stock
Mopar_Country  Offline
pro stock

Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,216
Under My Car
Quote:

every one calls this the shadetree hickabilly way of doing it




Well isn't it? It's not that big of a deal to move the perches and maintain the proper geometry of the suspension.

I can see it would work, but it can't be good for the suspension. Side pressure on the bushings and shackles, then twist on the springs when tightening the U bolts. No thanks, not for me.

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1001645
05/30/11 12:43 PM
05/30/11 12:43 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,664
Newfoundland
M
mopar_man Offline
master
mopar_man  Offline
master
M

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,664
Newfoundland
Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Just sold an 8 3/4 from my old 66 coronet 440. we put it in a 74 dart . All we had to do is pry out the springs on the Dart about 3/4 - 1 in. on either side . It was no big deal and doesn't affect anything. If A bodies 8 3/4s are hard to find , this is the way to go .




Sorry man.. This is a hacked way to go about it. Spreading springs like this isn't a good idea. The stock A body rear shackle has mediocre strength to begin with. Now as the axle travels up and down in normal street operation, shackles could bind and break. Plus, the front spring bushing has a "twist" added to it and this surely could result in rapid bushing failure.




Sorry man but thats an engineering way of thinking and really not in the real world . I've done this since the early 70s and not one of the cars I've done has had an issue. As a matter of fact, two or three of the A bods are still being used. don't know if you ever have done something like this , its not like you have to put a hydraulic ram in between the two springs. all you don't is pull out with your hands so the center bolt drops in the hole in the pad .
Your entitled to your opinion though and maybe more will agree with you but its my opinion that its not an issue.







every one calls this the shadetree hickabilly way of doing it

I have done at least 5 A-bodys this way and never a problem either,the last one I did have moser cut down to A-body specs

I have all but stoped suggesting it here cause of the negative replys about how bad it is or wrong it is to suggest such a thing,but it is a very cost effective way to get r done

when you use a b-body 8 3/4 with 44" spring perch centers you only have to pull it 1/2" each way to drop it in the 43" a-body spring spaceing

worn bushings everthing i have is worn out anyways

I would not rule it out,might even run across that 8 3/4 with the 44" perch centers first when looking...I did





Thank you Mike , At least there is someone else who have done this and had no issues .
I see it not much different then when a V8 warms that the "v" of the engine wants to spread wider and if you remove the intake and install an aluminum dome someone will say your changing the geometrics of everything ....funny thing is there are a lot of engines going around without the original intake.
Maybe its better I say nothing and forget about helping some guy save a few dollars when he may need it for rent or food .
After 40 yrs working at this stuff , I know its not the perfect way and if the op had the welding equipment and the know-how, i would proberly have told him to grind the perches off and move them in 3/4" but I don't see it as that necessary or a safety issue.

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: mopar_man] #1001646
05/30/11 02:00 PM
05/30/11 02:00 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
S
scratchnfotraction Offline
I Live Here
scratchnfotraction  Offline
I Live Here
S

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Just sold an 8 3/4 from my old 66 coronet 440. we put it in a 74 dart . All we had to do is pry out the springs on the Dart about 3/4 - 1 in. on either side . It was no big deal and doesn't affect anything. If A bodies 8 3/4s are hard to find , this is the way to go .




Sorry man.. This is a hacked way to go about it. Spreading springs like this isn't a good idea. The stock A body rear shackle has mediocre strength to begin with. Now as the axle travels up and down in normal street operation, shackles could bind and break. Plus, the front spring bushing has a "twist" added to it and this surely could result in rapid bushing failure.




Sorry man but thats an engineering way of thinking and really not in the real world . I've done this since the early 70s and not one of the cars I've done has had an issue. As a matter of fact, two or three of the A bods are still being used. don't know if you ever have done something like this , its not like you have to put a hydraulic ram in between the two springs. all you don't is pull out with your hands so the center bolt drops in the hole in the pad .
Your entitled to your opinion though and maybe more will agree with you but its my opinion that its not an issue.







every one calls this the shadetree hickabilly way of doing it

I have done at least 5 A-bodys this way and never a problem either,the last one I did have moser cut down to A-body specs

I have all but stoped suggesting it here cause of the negative replys about how bad it is or wrong it is to suggest such a thing,but it is a very cost effective way to get r done

when you use a b-body 8 3/4 with 44" spring perch centers you only have to pull it 1/2" each way to drop it in the 43" a-body spring spaceing

worn bushings everthing i have is worn out anyways

I would not rule it out,might even run across that 8 3/4 with the 44" perch centers first when looking...I did





Thank you Mike , At least there is someone else who have done this and had no issues .
I see it not much different then when a V8 warms that the "v" of the engine wants to spread wider and if you remove the intake and install an aluminum dome someone will say your changing the geometrics of everything ....funny thing is there are a lot of engines going around without the original intake.
Maybe its better I say nothing and forget about helping some guy save a few dollars when he may need it for rent or food .
After 40 yrs working at this stuff , I know its not the perfect way and if the op had the welding equipment and the know-how, i would proberly have told him to grind the perches off and move them in 3/4" but I don't see it as that necessary or a safety issue.





yea no pizzing match from me..run what ya brung

i did it that way cause i did not have the welder and grinder and all that back then,I was 17 when an old timer showed me how to do it

so I guess the A-body 8 3/4 in my 88 440 truck that tucks 12" rims with 29x15x15 M/Ts are all wrong and not the way its done either

but at least the spring perches are the same 43" centers as a-bodys and trucks right?

and I guess using a truck engine bracket along with a car engine bracke to swap a sb v-8 into a /6 k frame is all wrong and shouldnt be done either

man,dont see how all the negative nellys get anything done on the cheap

oh and my last 73 duster had a B-body 8 3/4 with the spring spred to 44" centers

never had any traction,handling,bushings or shackle problems..it ran in the mid 13s with a sb v-8 on a /6 k frame with a short shaft 727 from a 4x4 truck

the a-body 8 3/4 in the truck looks good to me,so did my b-body 8 3/4 in my duster


Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 05/30/11 02:02 PM.
Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: Mopar_Country] #1001647
05/30/11 02:08 PM
05/30/11 02:08 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
S
scratchnfotraction Offline
I Live Here
scratchnfotraction  Offline
I Live Here
S

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
Quote:

Quote:

every one calls this the shadetree hickabilly way of doing it




Well isn't it? It's not that big of a deal to move the perches and maintain the proper geometry of the suspension.

I can see it would work, but it can't be good for the suspension. Side pressure on the bushings and shackles, then twist on the springs when tightening the U bolts. No thanks, not for me.




why yes,i guess it is...but so am I,guess i do it the cheap way best i can with what i got when i gots it

my title before "gotta want it" was "shadetreehickabilly"

its all good,everyone can at me while I enjoy my mopar I built the way i want it with parts I had around in the yard

gots mo $ for gas that way

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1001648
05/30/11 02:41 PM
05/30/11 02:41 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406 Offline
I Live Here
RobX4406  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
Would a Duster running 1.4x 60's with a B rear and springs pulled out be good???

Does pulling the springs work... yeah I guess so.

Are there better ways to do it. Likely

I'm sure all the engineers here also pull the rear all the way down, mandrel the housing, to make sure the end doesn't get out of square when welding on the fresh spring perches too... right?

Carry on!

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: RobX4406] #1001649
05/30/11 02:55 PM
05/30/11 02:55 PM
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,216
Under My Car
Mopar_Country Offline
pro stock
Mopar_Country  Offline
pro stock

Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,216
Under My Car
Quote:

I'm sure all the engineers here also pull the rear all the way down, mandrel the housing, to make sure the end doesn't get out of square when welding on the fresh spring perches too... right?




I did. There is more than one way to skin a cat, and yes I have been guilty in my younger days of doing such things when I didn't have the means to do it correctly. "Correctly" being the key word.

To each their own and no flaming from me, I am merely pointing out to the OP the correct way to do it if he chooses the B body route.

I also see it as a learning curve for me when I do something. The rear in my car is a B body rear and after some reading and learning I elected to do it. I learned a lot from my hands on experience. Fun too.

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: DoctorDiff] #1001650
07/06/14 01:43 PM
07/06/14 01:43 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1
Oregon
D
duster1dave Offline
member
duster1dave  Offline
member
D

Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1
Oregon
8 3/4" rear end widths, drum-to-drum:
A BODY
'66-'72= 57 1/8"

B BODY
'62-'63= 58 1/2" (And '64 Max Wedge)
'64 = 60 7/8" (Exc.Max Wedge)
'65-'67= 59 1/2"
'68-'70= 60 1/8"
'71-'74= 63"
'71-'73 wagon= 64 3/8"

C BODY

'65-'69= 61.75"
'70-'71= 63.0" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'73= 64 3/8" (and '69 wagon)

IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 61 15/16"
'67-'69= 62 5/16"
'70-'71= 59 3/4"
'72-'73= 64 9/16"

E BODY
'70-'74= 61 5/8"

A100
'65-'70= 61 3/4"

D100
'65-'71= 63 15/16"
'72-'74= 64 3/8"

Last edited by duster1dave; 07/06/14 01:47 PM.
Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: duster1dave] #1001651
07/06/14 02:26 PM
07/06/14 02:26 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Wow, this thread is old...

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: MuuMuu101] #1001652
07/06/14 02:45 PM
07/06/14 02:45 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi Offline
Penguin-hating Ginger
OzHemi  Offline
Penguin-hating Ginger

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
Quote:

Wow, this thread is old...




Nearly as old as you.

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: OzHemi] #1001653
07/06/14 03:04 PM
07/06/14 03:04 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Quote:

Nearly as old as you.




I had only been on the forum for like 5 months.

So, since people don't like it when an old thread goes unresolved with an update. Last year I bought an A body 8 3/4 I found on CL. It had a 489 carrier, open 2.73. gears and was drum to drum. A couple weeks ago I tore it apart and I just sent it out this weekend to be built up by a friend of mine. It's getting 3.55 gears, an Eaton TrueTrac, bbp axles, and all of its bearings and seals replaced.

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: MuuMuu101] #1001654
07/06/14 07:09 PM
07/06/14 07:09 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
S
scratchnfotraction Offline
I Live Here
scratchnfotraction  Offline
I Live Here
S

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
I put another B-body 8 3/4 in an A-body.

and a 94 jeep Cherokee 8 1/4 in an 74 A-body. (same 43" perch center but axle under spring)

and a 94 jeep 8 1/4 in a d-100 to tubb it for 12" rims

since this post.

glad to see you make progress on getting the 8 3/4 done.

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1001655
07/07/14 01:54 AM
07/07/14 01:54 AM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,179
Canada
D
demon Offline
super stock
demon  Offline
super stock
D

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,179
Canada
A friend had a Duster with a B body 8 3/4. It was bolted in like this:
Stock B body perches on the diff. Stock spring hangers up front.
Spacer plates at the rear to allow the springs to widen out at the bolt in shackle mounts.
Maybe not the ultimate setup, but it was simple and free.

Re: B body 8 3/4 Rear End in an A-Body [Re: demon] #1001656
07/07/14 02:21 AM
07/07/14 02:21 AM
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,083
SE PA
Yellow Fever Offline
super stock
Yellow Fever  Offline
super stock

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,083
SE PA
Bought my 66 Cuda that had a B body rear in it with the B body perches, left it that way and never had a problem.


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