Quote:

The kit that I have is a basic Mr.Gasket stud/nut kit. No shoulder to seperate the coarse fine threads. Same threads from head to nut. Im guessing now that I should look a lil deeper into a better header bolt kit.



That is definitely the problem....

You need that "bulge" or shoulder that seperates the fine/coarse threads. Even if both sides are coarse, you definitely need a shoulder to seat down against the head.

MB

EDIT;


Reread the post and your last reply and it seems like you are trying to seal regular header bolts. What I mentioned pertains to studs and not bolts.

If you are running TTI's they conveniently leave enough room so that you can retain the original style studs and nuts to retain the header, which will be much less prone to leak. My advice(if you are running a header that doesn't allow the use of a stud/nut) is to run as many studs that you heve room for. For the other ones that require a stud, this is what I do...

-Drain the block enough to bring the level of coolant down below the head holes.
-Make sure the threads are not buggered up and run a tap to clean them.
-With all the holes clean and dry, mount the header and use some teflon tape on the threads with a bit of high temp RTV, like Ultra Grey. Tighten and finish installing the headers and don't fill the cooling system or start the engine for a day or so. It's a pain at times, but you will get it. Again, I would use as many studs as possible and only use the bolts in the areas where a stud is impossible. Because of the expansion and contraction of the exhaust parts- ity becomes very difficlut to keep those bolts from seeping. One of the best things about aftermarket heads is elimination of the wet header bolt holes.

MB