Large cable from batt positive post to large starter lug. Large cable from batt neg post to block. Momentary (spring loaded) contact switch to connect the large starter terminal (that has the large batt cable on it) to the small starter terminal to start it. Switched (on/off) 12v to (1) the wire at the "point" of the ECU pentastar connector (4 pin ECU) and the upstream (input) side of the 2 terminal ballast resistor. the other end of the ballast goes to the coil positive (+) primary terminal. I'd run a seperate 12V switched (on/off) wire from the large starter lug to the elec fuel pump (or better yet from a buss terminal which is kind of like a 12V source point like the fender starter relay large batt terminal was in the car if you grasp what Yancy is saying there as it's easier/safer to feed voltage out from it rather than from the large starter "batt" terminal on the starter itself. For a bare bones setup only the coil and the ECU need to be fed 12V. The dist self generates a signal that triggers the ECU to collapse the coil pri circuit & generate the secondary spark. I think it's a good idea to have seperate manual control of the elec pump (for priming and emergency shutdown). As mentioned one of the ECU terminals goes to switched 12V. Another goes to the coil negative primary terminal and 2 more ECU terminals go to the dist. (diagram in archives). For easier starting (critical on a new cam/ring breakin) can run switched 12V directly to coil positive primary terminal to bypass the ballast (switch it off when it starts). Need an efficient fan setup as it's not moveing forward like a car on the road.