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that's actually not too bad.

what about turn around time? how long will it take you to get to it, once it gets to your shop?

I suppose I'll make things more complicated, if I'm paying someone to take it apart, should I upgrade the syncro's while I'm at it? I've heard about having these "pro-shifted" ...something to do with the syncros that makes them much easier to shift. I read in the other thread about the iron vs bronze syncros, and RPMs are not a factor...my big block stroker has a hydraulic flat tappet cam, so I run out of revs at around 6200, and I'm running a stock electronic ignition with orange box, which supposedly will only fire 6000 rpm worth of spark. do I even need upgraded syncros?




Give me your zip code and I can get an actual shipping charge. I think I can have it shipped back out in a day or 2 after receiveing it.

As for the upgraded syncros and pro-shifting it, I don't know of an upgraded syncro kit but we are not equipped to do the pro-shift modification. What it does, it removes every other tooth from the syncro making it easier to shift at higher rpm. On the down side, it takes away from the street ability of the transmission. It makes it impossible to down shift and it is very noisy. Since you are a big block, you won't be turning rpm's above 6000K so I don't think that it's a wise choice for your situation.

As I tell everyone else, If you can re-train yourself how to shift the TKO it will make a world of difference. When going from 2nd to 3rd, use the palm of your hand and simply throw the shifter handle straight forward out of 2nd and it will automatically find 3rd on it's own. If you try to shift it like a 4 speed(up, over and up again) you will miss 3rd most of the time. The gates are so close together on the TKO, using the 4 speed method, you'll either end up in between 3rd and 5th or in 5th. Practice my technique under normal driving conditions and get use to it before trying it at the track and I think you'll see a big difference.


Richard
Tech Support