Quote:

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Left: .7* ---Camber
.9* ---Caster
.14*---Toe

Right: .3* ---Camber
2.1* --Caster
.11* --Toe

It wanders all over the road, and the steering wheel obviously doesnt want to return after completing a turn. The box is a known good box that was pulled out of another car that drove perfectly

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That caster difference is ridiculous. Even the camber difference is a little too much.

The specs would be something like camber 0 +/- and caster around 1 - 2 or something like that, but those are pretty old school numbers to use.

Ideally, keep that camber around 0, and the caster as high as you can get it. Likely to only be able to get 2 - 3 degrees with stock components

As for difference side to side (which is the problem with your align)

In a perfect world, you would want the camber to be the same on both sides, and the caster to be around .7 less on the drivers side for road crown.

In real life, if the camber's are within .2 of each other, and the caster is .3 to .8 less on the drivers side, that's pretty decent.

How it turns out will vary with each car depending on how much adjustment you can get where you need it.

I had a rack at my own shop for years,a nd still do lots of alignments at the dealership I work at now. There is NO way the caster numbers you posted should have made it out the door. Spread is too high, and that is why you can hardly steer it. Caster is your high speeed stability angle.

As for the question of are the specs different with a manual car... yes. You want less caster on a manual car, as it will be easier to park/low speed manuver. I didn't worry about that with my car, and subsequently, parking it is a workout, BUT it stays straight at the high end of the track no problem.