Having some issues with the charging system after putting a new engine in this winter. I also changed to a march serpentine system so I had to take the alternator to a shop to get it pressed on. They broke the original front housing so they put another on. This may all be a grounding issue as I only have the ground from the battery to the aluminum head. Checking continuity from anywhere on the engine to the regulator appears fine. The only other thing that changed is the addition of an aeromotive fuel pump and the relay is triggered from the 12v going into the ballast. The ignition is triggered from the original 12v coming out of the other side of the ballast.

Here's where the fun starts..

Took the car for a ride and it appears to charge fine until I stand on it and around 4K it would absolutely peg the amp gauge out until I pressed in the clutch and let the rpm's come down quickly. After doing this a few times I decided to put my multimeter on the battery and strap it to my windshield. Slowly going to 4K it would reach that point or close and then bury the ammeter again and also run the voltage to 18-19 instantly (full field basically).
Went and bought a new regulator and wire brushed the firewall to ensure a good ground as well. Another ride still had the same problem.

I then decided to try changing the fields and took it for another ride and slowly took it to 4k and it didn't bury the ammeter. I decided to step it up a bit and when I hammered it the ammeter this time completely went to discharge and basically killed the electronics and the engine died.. pulled both fields and drove it home. Took the alternator back to the shop where they changed my melted brushes from the full field runs. They then tested the alt with a new reg on the bench and ran it up to the fastest speed that the bench would do and it held steady at 14.5 volts or so.

Brought it home and hooked it back up again and took it for a ride and still the same thing. Driving around normally everything is great but once you step on it the thing discharges fully and cuts the ignition/lights out.

I'll try running another strap from the block to the firewall to be sure but what really baffles me is why does changing the field wires make it either completely charge or discharge?

Sorry for the novel. Help..


'70 Duster - SDSS 436 W5 4spd (Gone)
'71 Dodge D100
'70 Dodge W100