If everyones suggestions don't help you, there is one more thing to check.
This would involve using a DBR scan tool like the factory or dealership should have.
If the distributor has moved a hair it will effect the fuel curve. This setting can only be re-established with the DBR scan tool. The goal is to acheive 0, plus or minus 1, as the distributor is tighten down.
I recently did this job for a buddy when I sold him my 1999 Dakota R/T motor. The motor was converted to a stock type distributor for when I was going to use it in a car, then returned back to stock factory pieces and EFI.
I learned something new. Timing is 100% controlled electronically, the distributor position sets the fuel. This can not be done properly without something like a DBR scan tool.
I kind of got the vehicle going by trial and error, but it runs like a clock when the procedure is done. Power and fuel economy were restored.
Too many cars, too many parts, too little coin, too little space to work in, too little time left to make it all happen!
Update: down to one ride, still too many parts, a little more jingle in the pocket, gaining space, and it's going to happen this year!
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