I have installed 3 SB's in 65 and 66 (Valiant’s/Dart’s) in the last 2 years.

If you have power steering, I would recommend changing it out before you start. No matter what headers you want to use the PS Unit makes it real tight fit also the "Universal" on the steering rod for the PS unit will get in the way of the header. Dinging up a set of $700.00 headers makes you cringe.

Changing to a Manual Steering will do 2 things for you. 1) you will have more clearance, 2) you will not need to worry on mounting the PS Pump on the engine. 2 Different Style PS Pumps were used. The Original on the 65/66’s were the Federal Pumps, however if your using a water pump newer then a 65/66 you will not be able to mount the pump on the engine. Changing the water pump restricts the flow.

Earlier SB's water pumps outlet is on the driver’s side so finding a Radiator for a 65/66 V8 dart will be hard. The later pumps are on the passenger’s side. 67-68 Barracuda Radiators work well with later Small Blocks water pumps.

I run a 66 Dart with a Mopar 402 Crate, I kept the PS but if I had to do it again it would be out.

I'm using Doug Headers Ceramic coated and they are good quality and fit with minor massaging. Keep in mind the car is close to 45 Years old so thing change a little. Running Dual exhaust will require minor modification to the Trans Cross Member if you want to keep it tucked under. Basic notch cut then weld it back together.

While the I6 Starter will bolt in, you may find it a PITA to change once it is in the car with headers. Change it out for the newer ‘Denso” Starter.

I am running Dual 2 1/4" exhaust with H pipe. The engine pulls hard to 6800 I’m not sure why you would want to go 3".

You will need a V8 904 since the I6 904 has different bell housing. The 904 will hold up to a stout 318/5.2 with a normal rebuild and upto 500 HP if built correctly. If you have "Push Button or Column Shifters" dump them and go to the Floor Shifter. Column shifter linkage will not work, and Push Button Trans for a V8 is a rarity. Trying to get the Throttle Pressure Linkage hooked up correctly is another PITA, I have used LOKAR cables on one, and the other 2 have Manual Valve Bodies in them.

The 7 1/4 will last a few weeks, but start shopping for an A-Body 8 1/4. I'm currently running one with 4.11 sure-grip. It holding fine, but if it goes, I'll go to ford 9". Cheaper and more available then an A-Body 8 3/4, leave them for the restorers. I have one if you know anyone needing one.

Driveshaft length will depend on the Tranny and Rear but you will need a different one. You will not know the required length until you get your combo together.

Front brakes should be upgraded to disks since the drums will be questionable once the car gets rolling. At a minimum you will want to upgrade to a Dual master.

If you’re getting a 5.2 vice a 318 there is a difference in the balancing, so you will need a torque converter for a 5.2 or you can get a FlexPlate to use a neutral converter. 5.9's and 360's have the same requirement.

You will need a 90 Degree Oil Adapter.

Schumacher has the Mounts that you need, you will find that the Rubber Mounts provided are thinner then the /6’s. However you can use either one.

Even with the V8 Center link you may have some interference with the Oil pan. You will find out once it is all put together and you crank the steering lock to lock. A quick hit with a 3lb Ball Peen will correct those issues. Do Not DRIVE it with it hitting, it will only take a few time until you dump you oil in the middle of the street. DAMHIK

Good Luck and Have Fun.