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Yes, there would be a handling improvement using that set up as it is a big step up on wheel rates from original and is in the upper range of what a lot of "pro-touring" type cars are running. However, you don't realize the full potential of the changes when the uni-body structure starts flexing. When your putting suspension loads that are this big of an increase, your body is going to be moving around. Similarly, once the body becomes an active participant in the suspension motion, handling can become unpredictable as you expose each new weak area. Check out the XV video on chassis movement and you'll be surprised how much these things move in their stock form. While it is unlikely that your car would just come apart, over time it is possible that you would begin to pop spot welds here and there and as each weld yields, you increase the load on remaining points. That could eventually lead to buckling or tearing an exterior panel. My guess would be the first place to start showing fatigue would be seams where the roof attaches.



I've got over 50K miles on .99" 185 lbs/in rate torsion bars, KYB or performnace shocks, 60 or 50 series tires,... and no sub frame connectors.

I've seen lots of regular stock mopars separate the weld at the firewall to the floorboard. That spot welded pinch seam on top of the bell housing area. My 383 Auto Challenger showed signs of pulling there. And my Cuda with .99 T-bar is starting to show signs too. Both cars are So Cal no rust cars.

Also on A-bodies the ends of the shock towers to the frame rail will crack. My 68 conv dart, my 68 Cuda, and I check A-bodies over the years in the junks yards and spotted that. Again none of those cars had any rust in that area or anywhere structural.

Now I traveled 1600 miles across country with my 68 Cuda loaded to 5600 lbs without any front bumpstops. I didn't re-adjust ride height adjustment screws. So, the frame was hitting metal to metal on bumps during the trip. Right after that, the torsion bar hole on the K-member broke it's welds. And the frame showed some cracks around the K-member nuts that are welded to the underside of the frame.

Since that happened in 1997 I still run it without bumpstops. I haven't had any issues. I'm sure the chassis flexes.

Sure someday I would like to put in frame connectors. I just need to save up for the expensive of buying them and installing them.

Mitch Lelito SCCA Autocrossed a 70 Challegner T/A from early 70's to early 2000's with 1.24" T-bars and SUPER stiff suspension and tires. He has no frame connectors (not allowed in rules until very recently). Now that they are allowed I'm sure he'd like to put some in.