Hmm...just my luck! I wire in a kill switch, and now it won't start! The only thing I changed in the engine compartment is that the alternator charge wire no longer goes to the power box but now goes straight to the battery

It has gas, electric pump is running fine, accelerator pumps squirt fuel like normal, I have 11.9 volts at the coil and the orange box...did my coil or orange box freakishly go out the first time I tried to start it after rewiring the battery to have a kill switch?

Engine cranks like normal

Without a helper to turn the key while I check for spark, how can I test the coil or box? I left the key in the on position and unplugged the distributor to jump the wires thinking it would trigger the box to fire the coil, and had the main wire from coil to distributor unplugged and close to a ground to see if it would spark and there was nothing.

I noticed that my coil negative terminal was also reading 11.9 volts...that can't be right, can it?

With the key off, the coil had zero resistance accross it, so that's ok, right?

Where so I go from here?

Vehicle is a 98 Dakota with a carb'd big block, orange box ignition, and an mad blaster coil, no ballast resistor. It's got 3 years and 3500 miles with this set-up and worked fine 4 days ago, I know the orange boxes are known to go out on this set-up, did mine decide to go out right when I changed the main battery run to include a kill switch?