Yeah, I tried every one of those, couldn't get any of them to work, so I hooked the gauge direct to the sender and it reads the full range but backwards. Might just install the gauge upside down, at least it will read as empty on the left and full on the right side like a factory gauge. Thanks for all the input. What makes me mad is Chrysler made a sender that works, why can't aftermarket reverse engineer Mopar's sender and make one that reads correct? Guess the engineers back in the day were a lot smarted than this new crop of engineers.
per there diagram and instructions there is no reason it shouldn't work correctly. They even show the sending unit as working off resistance to ground.
Providing your sending unit is properly grounded (worth a check) which you've likely already done.
One could try Running a separate jumper from the battery negative to both the gauge and sending unit. doesn't have to be more than 16 ga, (18 would probably work).
If that doesn't work try a jumper from the Positive post to the gauge.There is also mention of a "Custom calibration routine" when the S/U resistance is unknown. not sure if you tried that or not.
Still reads backwards? [b
]SEE BELOW[/b]
You have a bad gauge or bridge PERIOD!!!!.
This is not rocket science. They are BS'lng you
if so inclined one can even use 0-100 ohm rheostat in place of the sending unit.
bet it still reads backwards.
P's me off what our support systems have evolved into (worn out jock straps).
I'm going to assume that at least your not talking to a foreign country YET!!!
______
You're onto something here's. How good IS the ground?
And folks laughed at me because I mentioned that the float may not actually touch the top of the tank when the tank is full.
Another question just occurred to me,
referring to their chart pictured in a previous post does their first number refer to a full or empty tank. I would ASSume empty BUT?
Form tanks website:
The resistance of your fuel sender should match that of your gauge. For instance the resistance of the stock gauge in a 55 Chevy has a value of zero ohms when empty and 30 ohms when full. The following list is for stock gauges and some popular aftermarket brands:
Ford up to 1986 - 73-10 Ohms
Ford 1987 & up - 16-158 Ohms
GM up to 1964 - 0-30 Ohms
GM 1965-1997 - 0-90 Ohms
GM 1998 & up - 40-250 Ohms
Mopar up to 1986 - 73-10 OhmsAMC 1950-1977 - 73-10 Ohms
Autometer -240-33 Ohms is the most common however other ohm ranges are made
Classic Instruments - 240-33 Ohms (excluding vehicle specific gauge kits which use factory ohm range)
Dolphin - 0-90 Ohms
Dakota Digital - Programmable to work with most Ohm range senders
VDO - 10-180 Ohms
The first number represents the empty Ohm reading and the second number is the full reading.IF their chart is reverse of the above, that would cause the problem.
IF your sending units resistance board was installed upside down, THAT would also cause the problem. Easily verified by checking the readings at full and near empty.
You can also verify the grounds a suggested earlier.
last on their list is a 0-1000 ohm custom calibration that should correct the issue regardless, providing the GROUNDS are good. Keep us posted
