You are going to need 24-26 degrees of initial timing and probably no more than 34 total. That makes getting the curve correct a beeotch. And it NEEDS a curve. Don’t lock it out or get it “all in” by 2500 because that’s not what the engine wants.

So get your initial correct and then work on the curve. My best guess is the engine will want 29-30 degrees at peak torque and then after that you have to bring in the rest of the timing it about about 2 degrees per 1000 RPM or close to that.

If you have a Chrysler distributor it’s going to be damned near impossible to get that type of curve without making the advance weights a bunch lighter. And then you will still be using the stiffest springs you can find. Where you remove the weight is critical. Get it off the big end as much as you can without compromising the pin where the spring hooks up.

I will say trying to do this in the car with a timing light is also near impossible. You need to find someone close to you with a distributor machine and who knows how to use it. That will make it much easier.

FWIW, I had an engine on the dyno that lost 40 foot pounds and 30 HP below peak torque because the curve wasn’t correct. Locking it out made it worse. Locked out timing or super quick curves do not make power.

EDIT: you are using an MSD distributor. That makes it a SKOSH easier because it’s easier to trim the advance weights and if you wonk a set of weights they are easily replaced.