I haven't built a 383/400 in a long time but if it were me and a non-class restricted combo, I'd offset grind the rods to 2.200 and a 3.51" stroke and use an off the shelf mopar width BBC 6.535 or 6.700 rod and run a lighter .990 pin piston as well. but even keeping the stroke the same the 2.200/.990 is a huge plus especially since any 383 4.25 based bore is starting off as a 427 BBC piston blank anyway.

Of course long rod ratios keep the angularity down and the 'dwell' "up", which was great for holding on the compression when all we had were relatively poor flowing OEM heads.

I had once planned on a 422" long rod B motor combined with something like a TF 240 head to make for a pretty sweet little high-revving medium-size motor that would be easy on a factory block and should last forever compared to a short rod stroker. and with enough gear and converter you could concievably make about the same power and ET

And if you wanted to get really crazy you could de-stroke the crank to 3.23" or so and build a 400 based 389" with TF 270's and a 7.1" rod (~1.26" compression height piston) and see how high we could really rev a B wedge.

But if I was using an LY or similar oem rod with a 1.09 pressed pin, i would definitely do the old Landy trick and whack 1/2" off the pin and save about 50 grams per slug. you're gonna have to re-balance anyway so why not take out weight instead of add it back?