What you posted is accurate but misleading. Look at the following diagram, if the installing electrician had his act together he would have placed 50% of the load on one of the incoming legs and the other 50% on the other incoming leg. Theoretically, if the two 110 volt loads are equal, what you have is two 110 volt loads in series for a total 220 volt load. Theoretically the neutral, the center tap on the utility transformer has no current if the two 110 volt loads are equal. But since they never are, the neutral is to tie down the neutral point such that the two 110 volt loads actually see 110 volts. That is why the conductor sizes vary between the three. For my utility the standard is #4/0 for both hot legs and #1/0 for the neutral.
Yes he had his act together, one lead wire for each leg going up the box. For 220-240 the breaker connects to each leg (2 wires running to 220 appliance).
Switch works ok, contacts clean. Changed caps still doing the same thing. I’m pulling out the motor since I can’t see the wire hookups. Been dreading that because the two back bolts are hard to get to. Got to many red wires coming out of the motor.
