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I fixed a '74 Duster grille (usual cracked mounting legs) using this method, as well. Worked like a charm.

Just make sure you let the repairs dry long enough before sanding. The tip didn't say anything about the ratio of acetone vs shavings and I think my "putty" was a little too wet when I applied it. After letting it dry overnight, I found that it wasn't real solid below the surface when I started sanding. For good measure, I let the repair dry for another 5-7 days before I attempted sanding again. Once primed, the repair disappeared and it appears rock solid. Heck of a tip.




Actually I did address that, but in a subsequent post on the thread linked above


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The flash off = The MEK/Acetone will evaporate from the melted plastic. Time varies with the initial mixture, temperature, and other environmental variables.

Bottom line, one day, 3 days, a week, you'll know when it's ready to sand when the plastic returns to a hardened state, if it's not fully cured it can gum up while being sanded.

When you break down ABS this way it does change it's chemical composition somewhat, it will lose some of it's "stiff" properties and stay just a tad to the flexible side (a good thing when fixing cracked/stressed areas) so don't expect it to return to a rock hard state, just close to it.

Also keep in mind that the glueing or welding portion of a plastic repair job is the easy part, the real, skill, time, and effort falls into the sculpting, sanding, priming, painting, etc. Just like body work in miniature. Practice, practice, practice..