My feeling is that the carb base calibration isn’t set up for only 440” and a small cam(230@.050).

I’d guess the idle circuit was calibrated to be used on a motor combo that’s quite a bit “racier” than that.
In a nutshell....... it’s the wrong carb.

As an experiment, I’d see how it would work if it were functioning more like a carb with a 2-circuit idle.

First, I’d look under the carb at the rear throttle bores.
I’ve seen some of them have the tiny idle discharge ports under the transfer slots, in addition to the discharge ports fed by the mixture screws.
If it does have the extra tiny holes, try turning the rear mixture screws all the way in, and basically close the rear blades.
You’d also swap the rear idle air bleeds to something much smaller, like what you’d use for a hsab.
Again, this is only if the tiny discharge holes below the transfer slots are there.

If they aren’t there, then I’d run the rear mixture screws not quite all the way in.
Maybe leave them out about 1/8 turn.
I’d still run the rear blades at almost shut(to start).
Leave the air bleeds alone.

Now, almost all of the idle fuel will be supplied by the primary side, which should noticeably improve the mixture screw sensitivity on primary side.

Start with the rear blades basically closed, primary blades set to as far open as possible, based on the transfer slot exposure.

After getting the motor up to full temp...... then you can tweak the rear blades open more to adjust the idle speed higher if necessary.
Don’t adjust anything until you’re at full operating temp.

I’ve found that 2 corner idle carbs can still work very satisfactorily with the mixture screws out as far as 3 turns.
The range I like to see then in is 1-3 turns.

If you can’t achieve a satisfactory idle mixture by 3 turns, then add 1/16-1/8 turn at a time to the rear screws.

Having the rear transfer slots not showing(or very minimally showing), along with the mixture screws turned way in will also lean out the part throttle cruise.