I used the Superformance gaskets and followed his instructions to a "T". I use a thin layer of Permatex Ultra Seal on all surfaces. I use an inch lbs torque wrench on the pan and valve covers these days. Looks good so far down there with about 1500 miles since the overhaul.

I also used the pan rail stiffeners from Hughes. You know, the 4 piece steel strips fitted to match the oil pan bolt holes and effectively thicken the pan rail. I also made sure my pan rail holes were not dimpled from previous torqueing.

My buddy, Roger also discovered that the two pan bolts that screw into the rear sear retainer and shorter. His actually were bottoming out in the casting. He had to R&R his pan a half a dozen times to get his leaks to stop.

Be careful not to use too long of pan bolts on the block pan rail either or you can break through or crack the crank case dimples for them.

As far as oil pumps go. I'm running the Milidon pump with a stock cast iron top. It pumps more oil than a stock pump and takes less power to drive than the typical thicker, high volume pump due to the shape of the gearator.

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1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)