Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
If it was me building your motor I would select a tight lash solid roller cam with a really good set of bushed solid roller lifter and matching valve springs, pushrods and so on.
Set them once when cold and again after running the motor long enough to get the oil and coolant temps. up to or above 160 F and reset the lash once more and enjoy the higher RPM of the solid roller cam and lifters with those good heads up twocents
I'm not a big fan of hydraulic roller lifters, yet, for either Mopar BB or 426 Hemi motors yet due to past bad experiences with hydraulic roller lifters in them down twocents


Good advice given my experience with hydraulic rollers. Initially, my valve springs were not set-up properly and likely weakened quicker than normal too though. The valve train harmonics really beat up my rockers as a result of it. Even with all that going on the motor spun out 684 hp at around 5400 rpm before the springs lost control of the valvetrain.

Cab, thanks for the tip on checking the lash again with the motor warmed up. I haven't done that yet on my new solid roller valvetrain, but I will.

Dwayne Porter sure nailed the latest combo in my case too. My motor is running stronger than ever even with 2 full points less compression and burning California pump swill. I haven't dynoed it yet, but it sure runs a lot smoother now with the solid roller valvetrain.


1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)