IMO, they are all decent pieces IF the finish machining is good. Most all the cheaper stuff needs machining to be useable out of the box. People don't want to hear that their brand new $800 crank needs to be turned before it can be used, or that the rods need to be resized b/c the caps are cut wrong, but that's how it is. The guy that did my cranks always says he's never seen an Eagle crank that didn't need to be turned. He is anal as hell, so he's probably way more picky than most, but he's one of the best. DEI and RCR used to send him pallets of cranks to turn for their NASCAR cup engines. I say "used to" only b/c he's retired now.

I have never used anything from 440source, so I can't comment on them, but have used all the others. I agree w/ Mr Pbody, your list has them in the order I'd put them in.

I have a K1 crank and a set of Molnar rods for a 540" hemi in the shop that needed no extra machining when new to be useable.
I used some SCAT rotating assemblies for some SB Chevy circle track engines I built several years ago that just needed balancing.
Callies Comp Star is another reasonably priced line of cranks and rods that are good at this level.

After an Eagle crank has been corrected, it is a good piece. We ran an Eagle crank and rods for YEARS in a 434" SB Chevy running 6.0 index classes. Put a LOT of passes on that thing w/ no issues...making a lil north of 700 hp.

FWIW...my thinking is 750-800 hp or less, the cheaper stuff is all good as long as you check everything and correct what's out of line. Above that power level and you need to get the expensive stuff.


CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax