Hi!

I am currently building an engine that will use 1.090" full floating pins.

1. If I bush the small end of the rods, after I hone for the desired 0.001" clearance w the pin, I'd end up with bushings that have a wall thickness of 0.031". I fear the wall thickness wont be enough to hold the interference fit over time and might come loose? Whats the minimum wrist pin bronze bushing wall thickness allowed? These are all bronze bushings with no steel backing. I have seen the Eagle H beams or similar do have very thin bushings aroung 0,030" but I wonder if they are press fitted or if they are actually brazed on? My machinist told me a non steel backed bushing thats press fitted and final honed to a final wall thickness of 0,030" doesnt make him too conffortable. He advised against it.
2. In order to install the wrist pin bushings I have, I would also have to open up the small end of the rod to accept the bushing. Thing is the wall thickness of the small end of the rod right now its at 0.168" (see attached pic). If I open it up for the bushing the wall will end up at 0.125". Again, I might fear this might weaken the rod and lead to a majour failure? These are stock reconditioned rods.

DUE TO THE ABOVE REASONS, THAT DONT GIVE ME MUCH PEACE OF MIND.....I WAS THINKING ABOUT OPTING FOR A 2ND OPTION:
Would it be OK just to run a full floating pin steel on steel. No bushing. Is this OK to do? And what pin to rod clearance should I run?

I have to use the parts I have on hand as this is a budget build. I just want to choose the best route so I can have peace of mind about not having an engine that will come apart.