See if you can measure the breakaway and rotational torque with a inch pound torque wrench both ways. I use a old 1/4 inch drive Snap On brand beam type torque wrench with adapters to the 1/2 inch to the 1 1/4 inch or 1 1/8 inch socket size for those type measurements up scope Back in the early 1970s Dick or Mike Landy recommemded having from 21 to 23 ft lba break away torque and 15 to 17 lbs rotational torque both ways work That was with 1/16,1/16 ,3/16 low tension rings in both Hemi and wedge motors with 4.25 to 4.380 bore sizes work Let us know what you get thumbs My current bracket motor has .043 steel top, .043 cast second and a 1/8 inch low tension oil ring, these are for a vacume pump motor also. I flat forgot to check the breakaway and rotational torque readings before assembling the motor realcrazy It has really low drag though boogie thumbs This baby should make a hoop of power, hopefully luck
I agree with you on using standard tension oil rings on street motors, even on a bracket motors with no vacume pump thumbs
I've had bracket race motors with teh smaller ring paks used today with standard tenion oil rings that I can rotate the crank with 6 pistosn installed with my hands only on the cranks, adding the last two rods and pistons make the breakaway torque more than my old hands and arms can do now whiney whistling grin AKA aside, low drag is good up


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)