I don't doubt that, but in a "go as fast as we can" heads up class. After a run with a nitrous car.....you have to get it back, look at some plugs, look at the data, make tuning changes, cool the car, swap the bottle, pack the chute............all this is assuming nothing goes WRONG. Nothing against bracket racers, but this ain't bracket racing, where usually between rounds you cool, maybe change the dial and charge the battery.

The first few trips will be a good bit of work, until you get the tune dialed in and learn what the car WANTS. After that, it is just learning how to make it go faster. Depending on how much you spray, whoever you choose to have help you with your system, is going to want to see some plugs after a run. NOT one or two, but the SET. This pretty much mandates towing the car back, or pulling the whole set at the end, which is a pain. When you first get started, you will need to buy plugs by the case and you will go through a LOT, to do it right and get the tune right. After this, you may be able to just look at your problem holes after a run, but you WILL need to look a SOME after every pass and driving it back, KILLS the plug reading.

Even the Street Outlaw guys........although you see them drive the cars back on the show.........when we are testing, we tow back, to get the tunes dialed in. It's just part of it, if you spray it hard and are anything like leaning on the tune. And if you aren't leaning on it pretty good, you likely are not going rounds, because you can bet the OTHER guys are leaning on it.

Best things to do are build the headers, so that the plugs are a snap to change and have some tools to do JUST that. Sockets welded on extensions, whatever you have to do. Design bottle bracket and place it, so you can change bottles in seconds, NOT a few minutes. You will need a hot water bath at the trailer and keep extra bottles heating in it all the time and ready to go. We have a little pouch in our car, by the bottles, that holds the bottle line wrench, any tools to swap bottles and the temp gun to monitor bottles. The nitrous line needs a ball valve within reach of the driver. At the stripe, kill the motor, shut ball valve off and purge the line empty. If not, you will be replacing plungers in nitrous solenoids like candy. And they are 40 bucks a pop.

Setting up a nitrous car is NOT tough, it just needs to be easy to service, turn around and be well thought out.

Some race HARD doing this. We have put pistons in between rounds. Changed gears, trans, converters, just whatever needs to be done. Of course we are usually a long way from home and we go to RACE and do whatever is required. I realize you are talking more local, home track heads-up racing, but if the strategy is "put it in the box" if it requires more than just routine between rounds stuff...........you may not race much. Because "stuff" is GOING to happen, no matter how well prepared you are