Quote:

I DO appreciate all the input and will try these solutions out today. BUT my biggest concern is why do I have 17 volts at the battery when I am only registering 14.5 volts output from the regulator? I really don't understand the process for this.



If you get your diagram, and re-read my post, I tried to explain it to you. It IS the entire post. The regulator case AND ignition feed terminal MUST SEE the exact same voltage AS THE BATTERY or else as the voltage drops--caused by resistance--in the wiring and ground path, CHANGE THIS RELATIONSHIP.

Once again, if you have a drop through the firewall connector, due to loose connections, corrosion, or damaged wires, the regulator will not be at the exact same voltage as the battery. Either measuring this as I suggested, or jumpering around the wiring with jumpers or cables should show it up. I simply don't know how to put this any more clearly.

Try to imagine the circuit. The vehicle loads are "trying" to load down the battery, the headlights, the heater, or just the battery being "down" from starting.

Let's say the car is NOT running, but the key is on, and let's say you DO have some crappy connections through the firewall connection.

Imagine the battery positive, the path of wiring through the cable, through the firewall, the ammeter, to the ignition switch, back through the firewall connector, and finally the power gets to the "green" lead at the regulator.

You might have, say, 12.2 volts right at the battery. The first bulkhead connector might be pretty good, but might have a tenth of a volt drop. So if you measure it there, you are down to 12.1 volts. Maybe the ammeter is OK, but the connector on the ignitons switch is a little corroded, and maybe the contacts inside the switch are getting a little "on." So maybe you have .2 (two tenths) drop there. Now you are down to 11.9V. So now we head back out to the firewall connector, and maybe THAT wire connection is particularly bad, maybe it drops .2 so NOW we are clear down to 11.7V. To add insult to injury, maybe the ignition terminal at the regulator is slightly dirty, and we have one last tenth of a volt drop. WE HAVE GONE from a starting voltage of 12.2V at the battery---once again with the engine off--CLEAR DOWN TO 11.6 volts through all this wiring.

Now if we ASSUME that this drop is going to be the same with the engine running--and it won't--it will be WORSE because of current draw-- we started with a total loss-- through the wiring--of .8 EIGHT TENTHS of a volt drop.

What this means is, that if our regulator is ATTEMPTING to regulate at 14.5V, WHAT WILL SHOW AT THE BATTERY with the system charging will now be .8 (eight tenths) of a volt HIGHER-- 15.3V.

NOW let's apply the SAME logic to the ground system. If you have several more tenths of a volt drop in the ground circuit, YOU ADD IT TO the difference above, so let's just "say" that you have .6 (six tenths) drop in the ground end. Suddenly we have a battery running at 15.9V!!! --nearly 16V!!!! (15.3 plus .6)


Pleas read this carefully. It IS what "it is."