the pins must be removed toward the top because of the knurled step at the top is usually around 1/16" or so larger than the main pin itself. this is to keep the pin in position in the hinge. if removed by trying to pound it through the bottom, the usual outcome is a gakked up hinge. "if" , for some reason, you were successful at getting it out this way, you would probably have to ream the hinge for an oversize pin[that is if you could find one] so the door would work correctly upon reinstallation. you may even have to make a pin if you couldn't find an oversize one. millions of years ago, i saw a tool similar to the home made one ron shows above that had a screw positioned on the bottom bar and a coresponding hole in the top bar that allowed the top of the pin to pass through as the bottom screw was tightened. the screw was smaller than the pin shaft, and was made from something hard so as to not smash, or swell as it passed through the hinge pin bore. the body of the tool was also formed to fit the hinge so as to properly locate the jack screw. i don't recall the make or model this was for, nor do i know if heat was also required to use this. i would hazzard a guess that when relatively new, the pins would press out without not too much difficulty. but 75 years later, most hinge pins need some extra persuasion. in your case, you may just be ahead to yank the fenders and running boards, even though that task may not be what you want to do. i hope something easier can be devised though.......