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Yea I hear ya Kevin, I've never done it so I can't help.

But I know what your asking, this has always caused me to start painting my work trucks after sand blasting and don't stop till I'm done with finish colors. Usally takes a couple days but I get em done with no sanding, scuffing and no recoating$$.

If were me I'd leave everything bare and blast everything right before paint. But I know not everyone has a blaster sitting around like I do.

It's the same thing with etch primer too. PITA


1)My plans we to cut out some donner panels
2}Then blast them clean
3}Prime with DP90lf
4}Later weld them in same as you do with the E coated repops you buy
5}Sand/scuff and reacot with 2K
6}Sand later and paint
Be realy hard to do it as the P sheet says for a resto, that runs on for quite some time{most of the time}
Guess I will shoot them a call.
I have some old DP on the car as well that will get 100% removed section at a time since it was not cleaned well before the DP40 was applied.
Car was redi striped and the shop was supossed to sand and wipe with laqure thinner and shoot the DP
instead the just shot on 2 light coats of dp and some is realy not stuck since it was shot over god knows what.
{ie}dirt grease oils ect.
They basicly stole my 5 gallon can of thinner, most of the DP and did a quickie shoot the primer on.
So now I am stuck when I do the car to strip all the DP off and shoot new DPlf on as I can in sections
I also tried to see and it looks like the old DP40 melts and comes off the bare metal with white rags and laqure thinner.
Was also thing I might just remove the old DP with a box of white rags annd 5 gallon can of wash thinner.Since I can not trush what they did to be stuck Then scuff and recoat with the new DP.If not it will be DA with #80 or those 3-M disk