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Most SB Mopar cams ground on a 112 lobe seperation angle are ground that way for a power adder or for extremely high RPM drag racing like a stick shift drag cam with a lot of different motor specs than your motor has or a high RPM roundy rounder motor, some application where the motor never sees a load under 5500 RPM at the track That being said you have the cam so try checking both lobes on the cam for lobe seperation angles at max lift. Check the intake first and then the exhuast, if you find the marks on the crank sprocket that actaully get the cam in with no advance or retard then the intake lobe max lift should be at 112 after top dead center and the exhaust lobe max lift should be at 112 before top dead center Once you deteremine if it is ground on 112 then find the mark (by trying and degreeing until you get what you want) on the crankshaft sprocket that will get the intake lobe center(max lobe lift at)at 105,106 or 107 after top dead center. If you get 106 max lobe lift ATDC on the intake then check the exhaust lobe, it should be in at 117 The exhaust lobe has to follow the intake lobe centers, moving the max lift on the intake lobe closer to TDC advances both the intake and exhaust, moving the intake max lobe lift away from top dead center retards the cam. Advancing the cam normally will increase the power at the lower RPM, retarding the cam is suppose to increase top end power as well as kill bottom end, I have never had a N/A drag car, BB, Hemi or SB Mopars that like the cams retarded IHTH BTW, I like to check the lobe seperation angles with the heads on with all the rocker gear with some light checking springs on both the valves so I can check piston to valve clearances while indexing the cam, I set the lash at zero and go from there BTW, you should do that checking with a solid roller lifter, not a hydrastic roller lifter That eliminates the chance of the lifter collapsing while checking the cam, which will skew the readings and clearances

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Thanks for all of the info Cab. I'll probably measure the lobe separation tomorrow to make sure it is correct. I didn't ask too many questions about the cam when I was purchasing it, I just told them what I wanted (Brian @ IMM). I feel pretty confident that his recommendation is good.

I didn't do any of this with the heads on because I don't have any pushrods, or a solid lifter(s). I have to measure the pushrod length once everything is assembled since the machine shop I used can't tell me how much material was removed when they zero decked it...