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If you really want to read a plug, need to not be looking at it after several passes, need to cut ignition at end of the run, coast down to pit turn off and pull plug and look at it then, if you idle back to the pits, you'll be looking at your idle mixture. What kind of ignition are you running? Even though all the new hi power ignitions are great, they make plug reading harder, they fire plugs so well, you can be a little rich and look lean. Best ways to adjust mixture with the good ignition boxes is to either buy one of the new wide band O2's, or make passes changing mixture and jet for best MPH. Thats my opinion anyway, you can still use the ground strap to check if your timing and heat range is correct, but tougher to tell on jetting. Plug magnifiers help, but still can be fooled by new hi power ignition.

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Totaly agree on all points .I have an MSD 7AL w/ MSD Blaster coil . I have a thread in here somewhere regarding my fuel system issues I`ve experienced (car has only 12 passes so far). My dyno numbers didn`t jive with what my MPH / E.T. should be. (down 150hp or so). Generally from what you and Cab mentioned I am on the lean side .I`ve gone through the basics and found my line pressure too low by mfgr`s specs (BG400) at 8.5 - 9 # should be 18 - 20 # - fixed. My 10 micron filter between the tank and pump , now a 100 mic - fixed.
My Gary Williams 1050 is square jetted at 90 as it left the RBRE dyno making peak HP/Torq. Also has slosh tubes in the secondary bowl. I`m running -12AN to the filter , then right into the pump, and -10AN to the BG 4port reg and -8AN 4-6" to the carb. Not sure whether to up size my lines from the pump to the carb one - AN or not ? I think the problem was the filter and line pres.
Thoughts ?
Thx All !
chryco