pull the plugs & bump it at the starter relay till you feel psi start to build significantly on your thumb over the #1 plug hole (front drivers side) then hand turn it some more with a 1&1/4" socket/breaker bar till the timing marks are at 10BTDC if a mild cam or 15BTDC if a wild cam. Turn the dist housing till the magnet is dead even with the tooth that places the #1 dist cap terminal over or nearly over the rotor with the vac can in its' correct general location with room to be turned either way. As said check that the wires are routed 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 CCW from that point & you can reroute the wires if needed but keeping the OE #1 wire location is highly recommended for standardization & preventing future mixups & lets the wires nestle neatly with the shortest lengths possible and you can reclock the intergear if need be so #1 is where you want it rather than relocating the wires if you want to do it that way & sometimes different dizzys are phased different between the bottom tang orientation and the rotor clocking & the intergear needs to be lifted up & rotated as having the intergear slot parallel as the book says does not always work. Pull the intake & regoop the cam. You have alot of money and time in this & cam issues are notorious so no time to skimp now expecially since you are so close. Read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com (5 minute read). Make a mark with a white marking pen 2&7/32" clockwise from the OE TDC slit on the dampener which is 35 degrees & when it fires have the guy manning the light turn the dist to get that amt at ~2500 rpm with the vac adv capped. Stat out. Front of car elevated (air pockets). Shop fan in front of rad. Any issues/leaks shut it down ASAP then fix it & restart it continuing with the 20 minute time frame. good luck EDIT when you lined up the tchain/gears dot to dot (6&12 o'clock) #6 is firing not #1 as commonly believed and you would want the rotor under #6 plug wire but the above will take care of it for you. Holler how things go