Booo... Yea, my rust is North Carolina rust. The type of rust that gives you a free convertible and a Flintstone's drive at the same time. I do know that if I do nothing, the problem is only going to get worse. I also don't have the money to pay a body man 2,000 dollars to weld in new metal.

I was also expecting some less than positive feedback on fiber glassing from automotive restorers as welding is the "kosher" method. I am willing to take a risk on that. Note that this is not bondo. Bondo is polyester based and I am using west system. This epoxy is ridiculously strong and allows for 2 times more strain before failure than bondo. It has also been proven in the marine and less so in the aviation industry. I am not just slapping some fiberglass reinforced bondo in the the cracks and calling it quits. A little bit more work is performed. Surface has been wire wheeled and POR-15'ed to stop further rust. Gaps filled with epoxy filled with micro ballons. Any fiberglass is vacuum bagged to the repair surface. it would be the equivalent to a 1 ton weight pressing down on a square foot. Final coating of POR-15. So I am basically challenging the notion that all rusted surfaces need to be cut out and welded back in at the expense of going back and doing it again it 10-15 more years when I have more income.

However, looking at the airbox plenum (is this even the correct nomenclature?) I dont have enough metal to wield a patch to if I wanted to, nor enough clearance to vacuum bag inside the car without it being complete crap and a guarantee to have to redo it.


'73 Charger Petty Blue, Black Vinyl, and Gill Slits 727 torque-flight 400 BB Chrysler 8 3/4 rear