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What is the rest of the engine combo? It sounds like you've got a stock '67 383 2 barrel and just changed the cam and timing set. What cam? Speed Pro CS327?

If you've got a two barrel on your 383 (which is a big block) it probably wont spin much past 4000 rpm and keep making power, its a tiny carb. Don't get too caught up in the carb calculators, especially since they are geared for four barrel carbs which are actually rated differently. If I remember right when they flow test a two barrel they do it with 3 inches of vacuum, whereas a four barrel is flowed with 1.5 inches. So basically a 500 cfm two barrel is probably comparable to a 350-400 cfm four barrel.

I would recommend a four barrel on any big block, you don't have to go crazy. You wont suddenly have a race engine, but a factory four barrel intake with a Carter or factory Holley four barrel will give you some extra punch.

As far as the difference, if it revved out higher before it could be a couple things. For one the cam is almost guaranteed to not be the same specs, and the old one was worn. It is more likely that the new cam is bigger, so you should actually have more high rpm power. The old stretched out timing set would effectively retard the cam and may have shifted the powerband up. Its also possible that your new cam is too far advanced if you just installed it by lining up the dots. Does it have more low end torque?

You may also be encountering some valve float if the new cam is more aggressive and you're using stock springs.




I have a 318 - I just edited my post, I saw how I made that kind of unclear originally

It has more torque - it's most noticeable outside of the stock stall/automatic shifting range. If I shift manually it really pulls stronger at RPMs beyond the stock converter stall, it just kind of starts giving up at 4200-4300. I'm using a Summit 6900 cam and new Comp 901-16 valve springs - nothing nuts. Again it revs willingly over 5000 without a load, if that makes any difference.

I just did a dot-dot lineup on the timing chain. I did note that the dot on my new gear was slightly further around from the key slot than the factory gear (by maybe a 1/2 tooth or so at most). I had the option to install it four degrees advanced via the crank gear but just left it in the stock location. I spun the engine around a couple times and the dots still lined up. The original timing chain was so loose I was within about an eighth of an inch from being able to pull it clear off of the teeth of the cam gear.

If this is a fuel pressure/supply problem, should the engine start acting up if I just run it up in 1st and stay on it for a few seconds? Or might it just hit a wall where I've just maxed out the available fuel flow without it leaning out enough to make any scary sounds? I don't have a fuel pressure gauge yet so I might as well try something out on my way to the store...


1967 Dodge Coronet Deluxe station wagon

1.03" T-bars, QA1 arms/rods, Cordoba/GM Metric/Volare brake & knuckle, XHDs, Hellwig rear sway, 318 Magnum w/ air gap, 727, 3.23s