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You don't have the ballast resistor inline with the coil wires do you? You are using the orange and black wires for the coil and just have the ballast in line with the "switched on +24 V" wire to the MSD box telling it that power is on right, or where? I don't think you want to run the ballast resistor at all with a full MSD ignition unless you have it setup to convert back to factory quickly. The MSD sparks that coil a lot and I think it would be bad for a ballast resistor the amount of cycles being put through it by the MSD.



Right, the resistor is not inline with the coil, just left it so I could switch back. I know I don't need it anymore, but MSD says you can leave it, so I did. Guess I'm wondering if the resistor which was broken would cause enough drain if it grounded out to prevent cranking. Doesn't seem like it, but, along with a poor ground elsewhere? The ammeter worked when I turned the key, but the car didn't crank until I jumpered the resistor, and kind of wiggled it around. Also cranked after reconnecting the resistor, which leads me to think that since I moved the resistor, that I broke that path to ground. The resistor is out of the car now, and if it starts today, I guess I'll go for a ride. Just don't want to have it hauled home again. The way I have the neutral safety switch bypassed (manual trans. with auto start relay) would prevent cranking if that connection failed, but wouldn't affect it while running, I removed that before and the car still ran.