The intake for my 383 is painted and will be ready to install in a couple days.

Intake is stock 2806301 4 barrel.

The spacer I took off appears to be made of wood.

I have air grabber on my car.

What gasket or shield is recommended by you guys?

How thick was the wood spacer & are you wanting to replace it with a regular gasket?

I'd say about 1/4" or so thick.

I was just wondering if there was something thinner and just as effective that you guys were using.

I'd bet its Phenolic and not wood.

Wood is the best isolator material.
Heck, at one time, someone - maybe Mr Gasket? - sold an asbestos gasket stack. That ain't gonna happen again!
As far as a heat shield, the best I've used is a GM one; IIRC its application was for a Holley on early Z/28.
Works great under a Holley on a BB Mopar, or anything else for that matter.
I don't know if the architecture of an AVS would benefit as much, being that the bowls are on the sides vs fore & aft.

Holley heat shield GM pn 3969835

Are you gonna block the crossover?

I have the new pan with the crossover blocked, but I'm having 2nd thoughts about using it because I still want to run the stock choke.

The choke well does need the heat from the crossover to work right, but that heat will boil the fuel in the carb in hot weather with today's gas. And as thin as an insulator under the carb will have to be, it won't help much. The original style intake and carb were good stuff at the time, but they were designed to work with a very different gasoline than they see today.

What we did on our 6 pack choke , (we use the blocked pan) was fab in a heat coil used on some chokes
and turn it on when starting to increase available heat to the coil.

We use a lighted on-off switch mounted in the ash tray for about 5 minutes.
Then the engine heat migrates enough to keep it open.

Joe

Any of you guys remember what Chrysler did in the high load BIG HEAT 413s in the trucks and motor home motors ?

I appreciate all the replies. What I had worked pretty well until the choke well developed a hole in it.

I have everything unbolted. Old manifold ready to pull. I have never had it off the car.

Gonna wait till later in the week when my brother can come over so I have an extra set of hands for the job.

Definetly use a wood or phenolic spacer as they wont transfer the heat to the carb like a metal spacer will. I also use a heat shield to run the pump gas and keep it from boiling in the carb on real hot days. I have heard wood is the best but mine is a 1" phenolic as that's what I could get my hands on at the time. Ron

UPDATE:




Stanton wins. Def not wood. seemed like compressed material of some sort.

After removing the bad manifold I found the left side head heat crossover plugged with some sort of super solid stuff, so I left that.

The right side by the choke well was open, so I left that too. I am using the factory choke setup.

I reused the pan gasket only adding felpro papers to the top side between the manifold and tin. Torqued it down and reassembled all the loose bits I had removed.

Fired that thing up. Ran it on the choke for a few minutes and when the choke came off it was still idling a bit high. I adjusted that and it idled perfectly and drove great. That manifold must have been leaking for quite a while because it idles perfectly steady now.....unlike before.

Thank you to 68CBarge and everyone of you that helped me along the way!!!!

No, what did they do?

They ran COOLANT in the exh heat crossover !!

Edlebrock makes a nice insulating gasket

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9266/