Hello boys and girls

it's high performance driving school time once again for the running of the Glen with the BlacknBlue 1970 Charger R/T. June 25-26-2012 sponsored by Phoenix CMR. There are openings in the novice class if you dare. PM me for info to properly prep your car for survival.

Lot's of preparatory work is taking place with some new tricks and hardware. We have added a second torque strap-passenger side, spindle ducts for the brake cooling, a lovingly rebuilt 3.54 dana, better brake fluid [super blue], new flowcooler water pump, bypassed the radiator trans cooler, some sway bar tricks, maybe even some real track tires... Engine venting will be in place as well so we don't get black flagged for fogging the track. Yes dear engines require venting...

I am extending limited invitations to be a guest spectator for the event. It's free. You may bring a guest, however all requests must be done by PM and you must adhere to all of the track rules and regulations. State your case when replying. Please do not request a guest pass unless you are serious on attending. Everyone who has ever attended this event always enjoys the cars and excitement and leaves with a big smile. Monday morning is your best bet to see all the cars run as stuff happens and sometimes you pack up and go home quickly. We may or may not run tuesday depending on the car and the weather. We do not run in the rain as it's not fun slippin n sliding even though some claim old mopars will run 140 mph in the rain...

Is far as the second torques strap goes...if you want to run laps or run your car hard it is a good idea. Think about what happens with only 1 side tethered... I am not going to explain why it's required,rather I will leave that for the experts on here to decide, just like whether welded K frames work or not...We used the schumaker set up and adapted it for right hand use with a minimum of fuss.

We anticipate 125 mph on the back straight with the large mopar...

Love that Charger! The black out on the bumper with the spoiler looks nice.What sway bars and T bars do you run on that car?

That looks like quite the car you have there and built to go fast and stop! I took my gtx out to Willow Springs a few weeks back and as you said track use is very hard on a car. We were told during our driving orientation that 1 mile on a road course is equal to about 10 miles of street driving on suspension parts. I know my front tires did not like being pushed and have just bought some new rubber due to tire scrub. Have never been to Watkins Glen but I did go about 115mph on the strait between turn 9 & 1 at Willow. Brakes are definitely a big deal when putting the power down and making good time around a track. Have fun and be safe. Beautiful Charger you have there!

Firm feel sway bars
.990 torsion bars, hemi leaf springs
Really, not kidding, remember the welded k frame and car...well when you give the springs a more rigid platform to operate, you need less spring...
Larger bars and springs on an non reinforced car are over compensation...like...do i need to say more????????????????

Some one asked about Brake fluid

I don't care how BIG your brakes are, cooling is required, Bigger does not always mean better.

Spindle Ducts,
Will be bolted on with some welded on aluminum brackets

12 inch mopar rotors, dynalite calipers and the right pads work just fine.

While the car does not overheat or run hot there is a lot of heat to deal with

Remote power steering cooler, mopar part

The trans cooler is a mopar truck part

We will be blocking the entire grill area with black foam to make a real frontal boundary and make the air go to where it's needed.

Torque Strap passenger side

All cars actually require 2 torque straps, just using one puts a lot of pressure on the passenger side and compresses it. This is reality not a keyboard fairy tale.

PS the dirt and grime will get cleaned before race day

How does the air get to the brakes...it's hidden in plain sight-works great. Duct is bolted in place where the metal plates normally reside in the front of the wheel well. Lot's of high pressure air coming in

Engines that run hard for more than 15 seconds at a time need breathers to catch the windage.

PCV breather is a mustang part, keeps all the oil coming up thru the pcv out of the engine

Dip stick tubes throw windage so it gets it's own breather.

Yes dear that's factory cruise control

Passenger valve cover breather and cop car oil filler tube seems to take care of both sides.

The master cylinder looks like one that I tried on my car. Care to divulge the specifics of the brake system?

no rocket science on the brakes
Wilwood calipers with a better compound
mopar brembo boxed large rotors
Super blue fluid
Wilwood master cyl with manual pedal
Dr diff rear disc kit
braided steel lines

Air cooling:
all brakes pushed to the limit need cooling

Note:
bigger brakes would only reduce laps times by an insignificant amount as this is driving fast not racing.

And for your viewing pleasure this year we are also running the family sedan. Go ahead laugh but that is a 96 Intrepid ES with the "handling and speed package"

V rated tires, no speed limiter and autostick.
A real blast to drive!! I am doing a brake pad and rotor upgrade. Struts have been upgraded to Tokiko and the inner tie rods replaced with the new mopar design. Amazingly the car will do close to 120 mph on the track

Looks like a great package Tom! Heres how I did my breather, plumbed it into the valley pan. Never seen anyone do it so let me know if its a bad idea.

Neat idea for the breather!

I went out and did some "testing" yesterday.

My oh my what a beast,a large beast at that.

I installed one of those "black" pcv valves from ma mopar for a 360 truck with dual exhaust. Works far better than the grey one, but i cannot tell you exactly why

New config for the poor mans breather
A little primitive but works, sorry about the focus..

Here are the front pads we are using as recommended by Wilwood and tested by me.

Best oil filter
Jomar

Templates for the brackets to hold the spindle ducts.

Battery has moved to the trunk, in the middle over the axle.

Junction block
Lot's of grounding and attention to detail
Grounding was checked with digital ohm meter
Battery voltage vs junction block voltage was checked. All ok

Voltage drop when starter is engaged was checked in both places as well. All ok

To change the "interface" I cut the terminal off the positive battery cable and soldered copper terminals on.

The main battery cable comes thru the car and enters the engine compartment where the clutch rod would go if this was a 4 speed. A clutch rod boot was used for a seal. Remember keep it simple, this is large jet not a rocket ship.

There are 2 reasons for the battery relocation

Weight location and distribution

A place for the 2 qt electric valve accusump was needed. That is next on the list. The battery tray makes a great place for simple installation. It will take longer to install and wire the lighted on/off switch than install the canister.