Replacing a tired 5.7 with a used low mile 5.7

My 2007 Ram has 338,000 miles and will surely not last forever. I am considering two options as far as a replacement: Either swap in a lower mile 5.7 or rebuild another and swap it in.
I'm curious as to which years are direct interchange. I also wonder if there is anything different that has to be done upon a fresh start.
I've done numerous engine swaps with old cars but only a few fuel injected later models. Once all the components are installed and hooked up, is there anything required to do besides turn the key and go? Does the computer need any "reflash" service or will it simply work as before?

An '03-'08 long block should swap over.Front covers and intake styles vary between car and truck engines but your parts would swap to a car block if necessary.

Is it a 1500? If so it uses MDS and should be replaced with an MDS eqquiped engine. If it is heavier truck it has no MDS and can be replaced with either, if your replacement has MDS in it leave the solenoids in and not connected to anything or buy the special MDS hole plugs I sell but they are not needed if you just want to leave the solenoid in. Like was mentioned any long block from a car or truck will work as long as you follow the rules I mentioned. Cars have different oil pans, exhaust manifolds, intake manifolds and timing cover/accessory drive set ups. Also a 6.1 long block bolts in also and they are getting more affordable. No reflash or anything needed unless you put a NON MDS engine into one that came with MDS, in that case a flash can remove the check engine light code.

The only thing different I do on a fresh start/new engine is priming the oil system. Use a pump to backfeed the oil pump and then the block until oil comes out the rockers.

The truck IS a 1500 with the MDS.
Knowing that a 6.1 can be fitted is encouraging. I would likely reuse all the front accessories, the truck oil pan and pickup, exhaust manifolds, everything that is truck specific.

I have seen 4.05 stroke rotating assemblies that can put the engine to 394-399 cubes...Sounds interesting. What about a stroke and a 6.1 cam??

If your going to think about stroking it I would think about swapping in a real 6.4, better cam, better heads, more compression... and a good used long block can be had for about the price of a stroker hit.

THere is still the issue of passing this state's tough emission regulations.
I don't know enough about making the changes between the 5.7 and 6.4 work. Intake and injectors, wiring, PCM issues...
I did a 305 to 350 swap in an '84 Chevy and only had to replace the computer chip...That was easy!

I stopped by my favorite machine shop and tried to talk with my guy about these 3G engines. He had left early but the owner was there. He had always been an abrasive and gruff dude. He didn't have much good to say about these engines, as if I somehow am the only one to have had good luck with one.

No I've had good luck with them and seen many high miles Police use ones. I've seen some failures too in Police use but also questionable maintenance on those. We had some usage of whatever weight oil was around in some of ours along with the oil levels not being checked frequently enough. And really I've seen more failure on early Pentastars too than 5.7's. Even our pre Eagle Heads 5.7's have been good, as have the 3.5 V6's. The 3.5's have been absolute workhorses!!! I don't care what anyone says about them. They just take the abuse and keep going!

Eh, yeah, some builders out there might have less than favorable reviews about them, but so do many in regards to GM LS or Ford modular engines. It just depends on perception.

Personally, I have owned 10 vehicles of various form with either Pre Eagle (2009) 5.7s, Eagle 5.7s, or 6.1s, and all have done well. A few were well over 100k before I moved onto something else and most saw quite a few 1/4 mile passes. One example was north of 200k with just plugs, water pump, basic up keep items.

Pre 2009 5.7s shortcomings include a tendency to drop valve seats, especially if over heated, and early years saw some issues with broken connecting rods. 2009 and later versions see some issues here and there with lifters failing and eating cams, but it is mostly rectified after 2013 models.

Overall, they are pretty durable and respond well to performance add ons. Just have to be careful on not getting too crazy on any forced induction on the stock piston/ring package, as the land on the top ring is fairly thin.

Thanks!
I am not looking to do anything with the replacement engine that I don't already do. I just need something that performs as well as this engine did when new, maybe a little more power. It has a 3.55 diff, maybe I'd swap in a 3.92 to boost low speed response along with some type of emission legal headers. That stuff won't be a problem with passing the smog check.
Are you the guy that usually coordinates the Malibu Cruise at the Spring Fling?

A 3.92 swap with a limited slip unit would do well. More of a difference would be felt with a 4.10 set. JBA shorty headers are CARB compliant and would help a bit more, with a good tune through a programmer such as Diablo. When it comes around to smog time, just pull the tune back off.

Yes, I am the guy in past years who coordinated the cruise, but I had taken a year or so off to focus on work and busy life with a now 3 year old daughter. I might not be able to much with the Fall Fling cruise this year due to some pending work trips, but hopefully I will be back at it in the spring.

Thank you for the advice and for running the cruise for all those years. I am a member of a car club and I am fully aware of the amount of time and work it takes to run events. It is a thankless job for the most part.
I remember following you up the Malibu Hills, you in the Duster, me in my Charger. I have found that the outside activities associated with the Van Nuys event are as much of an attraction as the show is itself.
I will look into the gears and headers. Thank you again.

It seams to be a popular way to go, there are a lot of Die hard 3rd Gen truck guys on Hemitruckclub.com might want to hang out there for a day or 2.

I've read and talked to a lot of 3rd gen truck guys who swear by changing the rear over to 4.56s

.01 over 5.7 (3.927) with a 4.05 stroke is a 392.42CI , Lots of those builds out there. .

Ramforumz.com or Tuned Rams on Facebook are also great sources of information.

4.56 gears alone woke up my Crew Cab with the 65RFE trans and its less than desirable gear spacing. In conjunction with a Hemifever tune and loosening up the torque management, it flies now and runs consistent mid to high 13s on all terrain tires and full weight (5900 lbs). JBA headers are about to go on, and a 3000 Edge Converter as well for the hunt for low 13s, or high 12s with drag radials.

With my 265/70/17 rear tires, 75 mph is still a very acceptable 2450 rpm with the 4.56s.

I have driven almost 30,000 miles already this year so whatever I do, I can't make this truck eat a lot more gas or throw MIL codes.
I'm taking in all the suggestions and considering several things.
I looked at a 6.1 with 84,000 miles. The man wanted $5500. That is REALLY steep compared to a $1500 5.7 with the same mileage.
I am leaning toward a low mile 5.7 and using a 6.1 cam with those shorty headers. To me, that should not adversely affect the mileage or throw any codes.
I can get 3.92 gears from a wreck for a good price or just swap over the whole axle. New gears will be digging into the wallet deeper than I'm ready to do. Maybe the 3.92 isn't much of an increase over the 3.55 but I know with a car I can feel the difference between a 3.55 and a 3.91.

Although not a huge seat of the pants difference, you will still feel the 3.92 gear, particularly on the low end. The effects on fuel mileage will be insignificant at the most. Probably speaking the obvious, but it is probably time to check on the u joints at the same time as a gear swap.

If you do go anything but a stock 5.7, you will need to get a programmer in order to shut the MDS (cylinder deactivation) function off in the PCM, Speaking the obvious, you will need the proper non MDS lifters to go with a 6.1 or any other cam.

Considering you will need the tune for the different cam setup, you may as well have someone such as Jay Greene or Hemifever Tuning write a custom tune to help free up some torque management and additional power.

Hell, even if you went with a stock 5.7 and remained with a 3.55 (add normal bolt ons such as cold air intake, headers, exhaust), a custom tune will make the truck feel much more lively than current.

Justin

You do NOT need to swap lifters to delete the MDS, you can simply leave the MDS solenoids in and unpluggegd, or you can buy plugs from me specially made for doing exactly this that look much better than leaving the solenoids in that are unlike others sold anywhere else or you could just run the MDS with the 6.1 cam. Adding the 6.1 cam and removing the MDS are both going to adversely affect your MPG as will swapping gears, )I have 4.10s in my truck and hate em). 6.1s are usually $3500 and ocasionally a tic under $3000 all accross the US.

http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=USA&userIMS=&userInterchange=E%3EC%3EO&userSide=&userDate=2008&userDate2=2008&dbModel=22.8.1.1&userModel=Dodge%20Challenger%20(Chrysler)&dbPart=300.1&userPart=Engine&sessionID=14000000011045990&userPreference=price&userZip=59901&userLat=48.1017000&userLong=-113.7517000&userIntSelect=460943&userUID=0&userBroker=&iKey=&userPage=3

I don't know if that link will work or not but there a 2 under $3000 with under 80,000 miles right now and about 30 in the $3500 range.

A low mile 6.1 will make 400+ HP plus significantly more TQ and it will run fine with the 5.7 tuning if you want to defer some of the cost of tuning up front you can do it later. A 6.1 cam and shorty headers on a 5.7 is a nice little upgrade but it will not get you 50+ HP and 40 pounds of TQ. I have done this stuff, it works. It will still use a little more fuel but the higher compression will offset some of the loss.

Thank you so much. I'm going to try that link.

Great information Dave! Out of interest, would your suggested 6.1 swap using the existing 5.7 tuning include using the 6.1 intake manifold and exhaust manifolds, or would/could all of the existing 5.7 induction and exhaust components be swapped over, including injectors, etc?

Kind of hijacking the thread a bit, but I am starting to plan the outcome of my 2016, as it will have over 200k in the next 3-4 years. Could a truck 6.4, or car 6.4 (bottom end and cylinder heads) be swapped into one of those with the stock 5.7 tune, using all of the 5.7 induction and exhaust components in order to pass CA visual examination? Of course, I would be beefing up the 65RFE trans as well.

My son had a bad experience with leaving the MDS lifters in his 6.1 that we swapped in to his 08 2500, after 7500 miles exhaust lifters on #2 and #5 (if I remember correctly) collapsed . which lead us to swap in a 6.4 BGE. the 6.1 had 13k on it when he bought it.

On the tune....when we did the 6.1 swap it ran good, definitely could feel the difference. after he got it tuned it was much better, tore up the 545RFE in about a month, then we swapped over to a 46RH tossed f--k ton of codes, had to buy a Manual 2500 Truck ECU/PCM then sent that to out to B&G for VIN flash.

Search around for a 6.1 some people want gold for theirs , we just pick up a pair off of CL out of Central NJ for $2200, 06 Long block 110k miles, and a 2010 short block with 65k

your 07 Is it 4x2 or 4x4 ? my kids 08 is a 4x2. 2500 Regular cab long bed.
Swap the whole 6.1 over, the 5.7 intake will bolt on but the ports are different enough that it's becomes a hindrance in performance.
I can tell you from personal experience that the SRT8 exhaust manifolds will not work in a 4x2 , the passenger side hits the frame rail. we used a set of JBA headers and changed the flange, I've seen my buddy do a few 6.1 swaps in to 03-05 1500s and the 5.7 headers work fine for a stockish build.

As for your 2016, Yes the 6.4 short block with either the stock top end or the (eagle)top end with the 5.7 intake can be swapped in and use the stock tune...but keep in mind that a tune will make it issue free.

My experience,
The 09 1500 I bought back in june we swapped 2016 6.4 in it, ,used the Eagle intake off of the old 5.7, had some start up issues with it ,keep running lean after about 4 hour it sorted it's self out, ran fine for a day or two , then the next day it would throw a fit , after an hour of start ,die ,start run 5 mins,die,start,die,start run 5mins, die, it sorted it's self out ran for fine for a day, then back to start,die crap, . this went on for 2 weeks then I got a friend of mine to "tune it" I bought HPtuners for the truck ,all he did was go in to general under engine , and change engine size and displacement from 5.7 to 6.4 , left everything else stock, and it's running great since ever since fun truck to beat on.

Now my buddy Ric, when he swapped the SRT392 in his 2014, he also changed the heads and intake over the the 5.7, dropped it in and not one issue, he says the difference was the ECU/PCM then went in to a half hour of an explanation that was WAY over my head....it was one of those just node and say , Ok I understand type conversations.
.

Wow..I'm grateful for the input here!
My truck is a 2wd, regular cab with the 545 trans. 340,000 miles on everything. It has been well serviced though. I do have a cold air kit from K & N. The exhaust is stock to the bed, from there it is a single inlet, dual outlet Flowmaster.
The 6.1 engines I have seen listed here are over $4000. They do come with warranties but I don't know how soon I could do this swap. I've ran into situations where the warranty of something runs out long before the part is ever put into service.
A long stroke rotating assembly is $2300. This takes a 5.7 up close to 400 cubes. That was one of the ideas that I was kicking around.
This truck is used for work...I'm a Carpenter and do a fair amount of commuting. I also use it as my primary driver. I am interested in a modest power increase but not one so much that I start spitting transmission parts. What kind of real world increase can be expected with those JBA headers and a 6.1 cam? I'm keeping the MDS.
I am not against using a 6.1 if I can find one reasonably priced. I'm not going to spend $3500 on a used engine. If that is the going rate, I'll stick with a 5.7.

30 hp from the cam and Headers might be more depending on the condition of what you have now.

Thanks. I figure after all the miles I've racked up, an engine with 240,000 fewer miles SHOULD make more power!