Eagle Head

My supplier dropped of some Eagle heads the other day, and I know most of us have seen these heads cut open, but here's some of the dissected parts I wanted to see.
1st boring head shot, 2 is what the oil passages look like(kind of), 3rd is a cross-section where the spark plugs mount...notice the water pocket. 4th is also of the water jacket between cylinders.

Been asked a few time is I know what the thickness is between the push rod hole and port wall ...so here's some photo's here's the Intake port cut horizontal , 1st shot is an ordination shot, 2nd is close up, 3rd the section is turned 180 degree, 4th is top and bottom side by side

Closer shots, 3rd is not the greatest, I'll take some better ones later on in the week.
The thickness between the part wall and the pushrod hole is roughly .150.

Intake Cross-section 1st two are the same port just different side of the cut, one has valve seat in it the other doesn't, last 2 are it's relation to the Exhaust port.

I have BGE's ,Hellcat, Apaches and Pre Eagle s here that have been cut up in the same manner I'll try and get those posted in the next few weeks.

Great info. Thanks! Ever tubed the pushrod hole ala Gen II heads? If so any flow improvement?

looks like the PR pinch could almost be ground away and still have enough meat there, is that true? Same with the spring seat bump maybe? Also looks like radiusing the intake short turn at the peak maybe 1/2 inch up might help flow make the turn better, any testing to confirm or deny that?

Thanks for the info.
Would love to see the Aphaces and BGE's.

Its very easy to go to far a pop a hole in the pushrod hole.

the push rod bump is about .150 thick, the same with the valve spring bump , I don't have the measurement right here , right now, but if I remember it was in the .125-150 range.

On the 6.1 yes these no,
I've been polishing the humps to a mirror finish and leaving the rest of the port at a 60 Grit finish.

I was thinking about filling in the top of the port from the entrance to the valve spring bump and lower the floor the same amount to the short side radius.

If you look at the cutaway you can almost see how the floor is cast to high as it gets to the intake flange. Im going to stop wasting my time on porting alot of the port on these heads because it all just comes down to the floor and making the valve seat fit the valve. All the other stuff doesnt matter.

The DP heads that were on the factory stock Barton car, the cnc only touches the floor.

Sixpackgut, what's the vein for on the floor of the port? Pick up high or low lift #s?

If your flowing an eagle or apache head and you lay a pen or even your fingure on the floor, flow picks up.

Same thing even happened when I flowed hhp/bes $2k cnc job.

It also helps knowing how deep your grinding. It immediately bangs the .400 number over 300 cfm

The Vein , is there a certain Width that works best?

I have not spent time comparing a sharp vein to one that is wider like in the photo but it seems to get the same results.

There is another thing on the eagles that helps. Machine cut on chamber on intake valve side. None of the Apache heads Ive seen has it

And it becomes very obvious why just a valve job will pick up flow 10 cfm +.

I bet a very light bowl blend, a vj and that spot in the chamber is 25 cfm. I get around 353 @.600 out of eagles.

Ray do you see any gains with valves at are polished on the back?

I wouldn't think that would be that critical. But a lighter and larger valve would be helpful

Ray if you get the chance this year try a 2.125 X 7MM intake valve....I think you'll like the results...I'm going to try a putting a vein in the next set of Eagles I do.

If I was going to go thru that trouble I would just buy Thitek heads. The equality of the head is just so good

How pricey are those heads, look very impressive!

ThiTex ? base price is about $2500

No doubt Thitex's are cream of the crop, but most entry level G3 hemi people aren't going to spend that kind of coin, I started this thread to get some Information out there.

I like to polish the entire valve head on the exhaust, it reduces the surface area and increases reflectivity and so keeps the heat retained in the valve down, at least thats my theory.

To do it I just chuck the valve in the drill press and run it on a slower speed, careful not to marr it up and dont grab it where the guide slides at all, then depending on surface texture of valve, start around 220 grit and work my way finer till around 2000 grit and I can see my face reflecting in it.

2500, not as bad as I thought!

I love all the in depth information on this forum . I'm gonna have a go at porting my Apache heads ... i'll probably loose 30 hp ! .

It's a V*A*N*E

Blood doesn't flow through it. It does, through a vein.

R.

So, rolling the short side radius angle towards the intake side of the head has proved to be one of the most effective strategies? Allows the air to start turning around the short side radius earlier correct?

Anybody try welding some taller spring seats in to raise the port roof?

not sure that putting in that type of work is worth it with the eagle head.

Anybody have any cutaways of the BGE cylinder heads? I'm curious of the thin areas that this cylinder may have compared to the eagle cylinder head.

Ray can you elaborate on this cut a little?

He's referring to the factory relief cut in the chamber

I haven't forgot to get to this, just haven't had the time to cut up a head, the last one I did cut open was Hellcat head(same ports as the BGE)I sent off to a friend.