Suspension help

Hey guys i have a 68 fb Barracuda that has the old leaf springs and I'm told that i need an upgrade to 4-link and coil overs to improve my driveability and handling. Who has the biggest bang for the buck when it comes to suspension parts. I don't want the cheapest crap, but I need stuff good for street/strip style driving. Engine is a 410 stroker going through a B&M 727 with a 3k stall turning a powerlock with 3:55's in 8.75 rear end. Thanks for your time.

I'll start, whoever suggested dropping leafs and changing to a triangular? 4 link should be ignored until further notice.
I am assuming Being in the "handling" section the intention is turning both left and right with the car.
Others can piuck up where i left off.

Whoever told you that you need coil overs, that is the first person you should probably not listen to anymore.

Hotchkis make nice kits. They are smart dudes.

You could save some money and go with PST. Good stuff as well.

You will get 100 opinions here I bet. I say get a Hotchkis kit. TVS is what it is called I think.

Thanks, I'll take a look.

when it comes to handling, just a few tweaks to the factory setup [shocks, T-bars, etc] is all a guy needs.
a huge difference can be made upgrading what is there at a modest cost versus ripping the factory design out and spending buckets of cash on the latest wiz-bang coilover/four bar whatever flavor of the week suspension system that looks kewl, but works way less than the factory setup.
somebody at one time stated : "stick with stock, you will be better off."
sounds good to me.

Well, desired application really should drive what you do to your suspension.

For the occasional bracket racer and regular street driver, the stock stuff can be dialed in to work very well while increasing handling capability and producing more consistent strip times, with only changes to spring rates and shocks. This can be done from under a grand to several thousand dollars depending on if you want to piece meal it or buy a complete integrated update to the OEM layout.

On the other hand, if you are racing in a series that allows the modifications, you want the weight reduction, you run a variety of tracks regularly, need the range of adjustability, and will be changing springs and shocks based on the track or conditions in a circumstance where tenths or hundredths of a second matter, then a coil over conversion may be the best ticket. Prices here start at several thousands and only go up from there. The top tier pro-touring type guys can easily top out $25-30k for a suspension system.

Some how I get the feeling from the OP's post that he's not going to be changing springs and shocks at every track or dialing it in to the Nth degree.

Probably not, but its easy and worthwhile explaining why they may be desirable beyond "my buddy said I need em".

Street strip sounds to me like street with maybe a trip to the dragstrip.
Best bang for buck is:
Tires (or tires and wheels) for the roads you will be driving on.
Front anti-sway bar if your car doesn't have.
Larger torsion bars
Clamp the front half of the rear leafs, and/or replace (exception possibly being Formula S & 383 springs).
Run the pinion snubber just against the floor pan when going to the track.

Choice of tires sway bar and t-bars depends on the roads you'll be driving on.
For good smoothed paved asphault and concrete only, you may want to look at grippier summer only low profile performance tires and the wheels to mount them.
In which case go with a t-bar in the .999 to 1.04 diameter, a large front sway bar. I'd look at Firm Feel and Hotchkis, possibly Hellwig for the bar. Each company has different offerings for bar attachment.

For run of the mill tires, good for mixed off road use, then IMO the above is about as stiff as you'ld want. On the other end of the spectrum stiffest factory t-bars and anti-sway bar and leafs would be a legit option.

In either case, align with a little more aggressive camber (more negative) and caster (more positive) than factory specs.