Opinions on torsion bars

Hi folks. I'm heading into uncharted waters for me. I'm building a 68 b body wagon, and in want it to handle well. Have good road manners and such. Whose torsion bars and size do you like. I was looking at 1.03 diameter bars, and a sway bar. Recommendations? Horror stories? Thanks for the input.

pst bars are the cheapest (price wise) firmfeel does custom rates but cost more, I have firm feel and they have been great, but I have read good reviews on pst bars if your looking at 1.03. Sway bars cheapest I found is https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/sway-bars-hellwig/dodge/64-72-mopar-b-body

best part is if you wait till a holiday - they add the holiday price ontop of the sales price, I think I got both front/rear for under$300 hollow front, solid rear, both adjustable

If the car is used as wagon, the 1.03 are a good start, you will need to address rear leafs to maintain any kind of balance, which on a wagon must be kinda tough, empty to fully loaded.. Personally I would step up at least a bar size, stay away from KYB's period, nobody has ever said after years here on moparts they went too large, and most wonder, even with the noticeable improvement of whatever larger TB they picked, if they went big enough.

Be sure and followup you results, BTW.

Sway a way has big Mopar T bars and free shipping. Their bars come with boots too.
https://swayaway.com/product-category/torsion-bars/tb-dodge/

I have a set of their 1:20's on my Demon.

Somebody on here built a 68 Coronet wagon with big t bars and sway bars. Can't think of who it was though.

What engine are you running? The weight of the motor is a variable that you want to consider.

I have a small block with aluminum heads and intake on a 71 Satellite and I run 1.03 torsion bars on that. 1.03 at 41" long is about 205/lbs/inch spring rate. If you have a big block you might want something a little stronger.

If you have access to some scales, weigh the car. Get the total, front, back and 4 corners. Pick from there.

Yep, that's even better.

I've got 1.22" old mp bars with Koni shocks. I like it.

All of the above and don't forget fat bars require good shocks. Don't skimp there. I run MP 1.12" with RCD Bilsteins on my E-body Barracuda. Leaves are old MP XHD's with the extra RH leaf, 80's vintage made in USA examples. I also have SFC's and torque boxes. Small block/Auto.

A similar formula and some offset UCA bushings, and you'll be impressed, especially with your long wheelbase. I also added shims to the P/S pressure valve to reduce the assist pressure. Didn't do much for the road feel, but did increase the effort, and it feels more precise to me, which adds to my confidence.

Mopar Mitch has posted his $0.02 on the Tbar subject in the forum quite a few times. I followed his guidance and found I agree. Worth a search

I redid the front suspension on my 318-equipped 68 Coronet, 9 pass. wagon 2 years ago. I added new .960 MP bars to the factory front sway bar along with 11 3/4" factory disc conversion (Dr. Diff) and offset moog UCA adjusters. I also boxed the lower control arms. I like my front suspension stance a little on the low side so I backed off the adjusters a few turns. I am happy with the performance but fell short in the shocks and went cheap until I get the Bilsteins. I wish I went with bigger bars along with a larger diameter sway bar. I also did the Espo rear leafs. I have loaded up the wagon with 6 adults and driven all over NYC roads (both highway and local) which are not the best without issue.

Ernesto

WyldeBill -- increasing the size of your TBs over the factory size will make noticable differences, but you do need to make it a "package"... step up the rear leafs a little more in stiffness, add better shocks f/r (you'd appreciate the 2x double adjustables that are available now... you can fine-tune the ride with them).

Increasing the front sway bar size will also be noticable, but be certain that you add a rear sway bar, otherwise you'll just be introducing more front end plow (understeer).

As I've said so many times in previous posts, don't be afraid of bigger TBs. After you make one increase, you'll only wonder why you didn't go a little bigger, and bigger again, etc. 1.03? OK... but consider about 1.1-1.12 as a good street/hwy TB size. Bigger front TBs especially reduce front end dive (from hard breaking), as well as front end lift during accelerating and cornering.

Although I settled at 1.24" ( the largest that will physically fit through the hex) for my competition SCCA Autocross Challenger, its still fine for the street/hwy. In comparison, the SCCA T/A and AAR pro cars run ~1.40+ diameter TBs.

Changing the upper control arms with those that offer more positive CASTER (with a little negative Camber), and/or simply swapping to the Moog offset UCA bushings to achieve that goal, will also be part of the "package" that you'll want to do.

Your choice of tires and sizes will make a difference. Shorter sidewalls will progressively give you a harsher ride (less road bump absorption), so be careful what you choose. IF you stay with 15", you'll still get a good ride (example: 245-60 or 255-60 fronts, and 275-60 rear). but as soon as you jump to a 50-45-40-35-30 profile sidewall, the ride harshness steadily increases. Playing with tire PSI is something you can do for ride quality.

Good luck and MoPower to ya!

This thing was someone's old hot rod. It has super stock springs,that will be removed for something more inline with a road car. It has a factory sway bar and the stock drums are going in the scrap pile. Its going to be powered by a mild iron headed bb with a 727/gv. I haven't nailed down a wheel tire combo yet. I'm guessing 17/18's. This will be a road car that I can go to the drive in or power tour.

I’d go 1” Tbars. Compromise between handling and ride. And inexpensive.

Then big front and a rear bar (rear weight of wagon)

*** I’m suggesting this because of the intended use of the OP’s wagon. It seems like he is looking for significant improved street handing. And wants to drive and enjoy the car on long trips like Hot Rod Tour.

I’m not thinking he’s intending to autocross or roadrace this wagon. ???

I’ve run .99” and 1.14”.

I’ve driven LA to Iowa (1800 miles) round trip every summer for 4 years. It was a stiff ride but manageable. Like Mitch said tire side-wall effect ride too. I could tell the difference between running 225/50/15 and 235/60/15.

I would choose .99” over 1.14” And go with rubber:!lower control arm bushings and offset upper control arm bushings. And definitely run rubber rear leaf bushings. The rear cargo area of a wagon is a sound box. Rubber will isolate the drones, moans, and creaks.

I would go well over 1" on the torsionbars myself. I'm pretty much ready to upgrade the 1" bars on my A-body driver myself to something larger.
Too bad SwayaWay doesn't have 1.14" A-body bars in stock at the moment or I would've ordered a pair.

B-bodies having longer T-bars and wheelbase and all, would really like some more springrate for handling.

Anyone have a b body their upgrading?

Pm'd!

I'll cast another vote for large torsion bars. I went with a 1.12" equivalent on my Fifth Avenue and loved it - especially coupled with a matching set of factory front and rear sway bars.

What I would highly recommend staying away from are tires with reduced sidewall. I drove my car for a year in the above configuration with 15" tires and it was great. I went 18" the following year and while the handling improved greatly once again, the ride quality went to complete crap. I'm now bending rims on Michigan pot holes.

For a cruiser go big in T and sway bars while keeping the sidewalls for comfort. This will control the diving characteristics and keep the car planted without rattling your teeth out.

Add a Borgeson power steering box and pump to ice the cake.

I'm constantly upgrading my 71 Satellite. 30 years and going...