67 B body Autocross set up?

What are the first, most simple and quick steps to get a stock 67 B body ready to autocross?

Thanks, Joel

First: BIG anti-sway bars. And get some sticky tires at the same time regardless what bars or springs you have or get. Non sticky tires just won't work regardless what else you do with the car.

Second: bigger torsion bars - big heavy car = 1 1/4" at least.

Third: frame connectors.

Forth: heavier/bigger/better rear springs.

Fifth: better shocks to go with the springs and t-bars.

A good oil pan, I like the Milodon road race pans. I have the idea that Bergman tbars and big brakes are in your future young Jedi.....I am trying to figure out how to install carbon ceramic metallic rotors and 6 piston brembo calipers....

No.3 should (already) be done on all Mopars, regardless of their use

Well, ya. But...


Most of us have to do things in steps as the paydays come around.

Easiest way to get your car ready, is to inflate the tires to max and enter an event! One thing I learned through the years is the driver is the biggest component, and a novice constantly changing his/her car can impeed learning.
But in changing a stock car to getting it ready to autocross this is the order I would go in:
1) alignment: get some positive caster, negative camber, and a skosh of toe in. Use the Moog bushings and it will be much easier to get that. If not, you may need UCAs, but this is where it all starts.
2) 200 treadwear tires as wide as possible. Tires make the most difference when transforming a car. However, the difference is two fold. While a sticky tire is faster, it forgives many mistakes. That can slow down learing the fast way around a course. Locally I chase down cars on 50tw tires on my 200tw tires. I'm not the best driver but last time out I wasn't last in my class, either.
3) Frame connectors. If not done already, they can be done as cheaply or as expensive as you want. Go to a steel supplier and fab your own or buy the latest and greatest contour fit. Something is better than nothing. Get a bolt in set and bolt them in, take them to an exhaust shop and get them welded in.
4) sway bars. Go big in front, like 1 1/4. For the rear, start small. If the car still wants to push and not rotate, go bigger. Repeat until the car just wants to kick out to your driving style.
5) shocks. Get good single adjustables to start. You can stiffen them up for racing and then soften them for the drive home. If you go big torsion bars and keep cheap-ish shocks, you may hate the ride on the car over roads. That's why I say shocks first.

That's where I'd start. Don't worry about oil mods at first unless you're triggering the oil light. a good oil pan isn't cheap, and changing one while the engine is in the car isn't always easy. Changing spring rates is also easy, but it gets more expensive, and again, a lot is driver preference. There are some of us that like the large 1.18, 1.22 and 1.24 bars. Hotchkis, among others, recommends a smaller bar. It all depends how hard core you go, really. There's a lot more to go, as with any motorsport. How fast do you wanna go? $$$$$

Just show up and try the car the way it is, lots of times you will find the car stalls or leaks. After that you can start to dial it in, first things I would change is the torsion bars and front shocks.

You may want to pick up a copy of Andy F's book on b-body handling. LOTS of good info in there to digest.

18x9 or wider wheels and 275/35/18's in a 200tw tire would be my first additions. With a tire/wheel package that is capable you will better know what the suspension needs. All the suspension mods in the world won't matter with g60/14's.

Thanks for all the help!

I agree. And fitting wide front and rear tires on a 66-67 B-body will take lots of homework, thought, and skillful metal manipulation if you want it to look subtle.

Might consider of making room to 315's on all four corners if you are looking to be competitive.

I'd be thinking of using the natural front fender flare that 66-67
s have. Maybe manipulating it upwards, thinning it, angling it out more, etc.

In the rear mini tubs would keep the flat quarter still flat.

Mmmkay

Where can I get this book? I am interested.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=Andy+Finkbeiner


>>> click link <<<

Andy's home page;

http://arengineering.com/

thank you