Recommenfations on torsion bars and shocks please

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So in on the island you must always be turning?

90% of what you are seeking has been covered in other threads here, they are worth reviewing, my only initial comment I'd make, and there are differing opinions on this solution, is only consider the rear bar after everything else is sorted out, and then decide.

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So in on the island you must always be turning?

90% of what you are seeking has been covered in other threads here, they are worth reviewing, my only initial comment I'd make, and there are differing opinions on this solution, is only consider the rear bar after everything else is sorted out, and then decide.

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So in on the island you must always be turning?

90% of what you are seeking has been covered in other threads here, they are worth reviewing, my only initial comment I'd make, and there are differing opinions on this solution, is only consider the rear bar after everything else is sorted out, and then decide.

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As much as I hate too, I agree with jcc on this. I have a rear bar sitting in the corner of my garage because of this. The rear bar made the car ride rougher and a contender for a drifting trophy.

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So I guess to start - what size T-bars would best match the oval track leafs?

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That depends, what are your corner weights and what is the spring rate of the leafs?

For my 65 Cuda, which isn't all that applicable to you, .89" bars matched the oval track leafs I bought.

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https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=0#Post7909560

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A very relavant thread. I'd recommend Andy F's Torsion Bar Tango as a place to read. As you can guess, what is best is quite different from one person to the next. My cars first upgrade was to the MP .920" bars, Addco 1" front/ 3/4" rear bars and Edelbrock IAC shocks. It made for a good riding combo that I could comfortably take freeway on/off ramps at 2X the posted limits. I'm getting more aggressive with the parts and adding a bigger engine with easily 2X the HP of the tired 318 that was in there before.

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Gee, wonder why a rear bar was a problem?

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I believe when you stop the rear from leaning, you stop what little weight is in the rear from transferring to the outside tire. The rear stepped out much earlier with the rear bar.

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Not sure if I understand your point, but a rear bar for instance will decrease the loading on the inside tire, AND increase loading on outside tire, resulting in less total axle grip BECAUSE tires are LESS evenly loaded, and this results in increased over steer, and if not matched better to front roll resistance, handling is perceived to be degraded.

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Gee, wonder why a rear bar was a problem?

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I believe when you stop the rear from leaning, you stop what little weight is in the rear from transferring to the outside tire. The rear stepped out much earlier with the rear bar.

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Not sure if I understand your point, but a rear bar for instance will decrease the loading on the inside tire, AND increase loading on outside tire, resulting in less total axle grip BECAUSE tires are LESS evenly loaded, and this results in increased over steer, and if not matched better to front roll resistance, handling is perceived to be degraded.

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Gee, wonder why a rear bar was a problem?

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I believe when you stop the rear from leaning, you stop what little weight is in the rear from transferring to the outside tire. The rear stepped out much earlier with the rear bar.

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Not sure if I understand your point, but a rear bar for instance will decrease the loading on the inside tire, AND increase loading on outside tire, resulting in less total axle grip BECAUSE tires are LESS evenly loaded, and this results in increased over steer, and if not matched better to front roll resistance, handling is perceived to be degraded.

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JCC You got it backwards. You want your weight to transfer to the outside in a corner. That's where you need the grip, not the inside.

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We disagree, anybody want to jump in here, I think this is a major misunderstanding here, or one of us is completely wrong ( I don't mean that in belligerent way)

A couple of basics regarding grip as I see them, a. maximum grip is achieved on a single axle is when both tires are loaded exactly the same. In a corner that is not possible, no matter what the design or features. b. Any difference in tire loading reduces overall total grip, no matter what the weight transfer, as the higher loaded tire DOES NOT gain the grip back proportionally that the unloaded tire lost. c, sway bars reduce grip to a degree by increasing tire loading differences, but may have other offsetting positives by such things such as improved wheel/tire alignment in body roll. d. on this point I am winging it, but body roll is possibly additionally increased by removing sway bars because of increased grip, if tire alignment can still be useful. e. there is more to perceived handling then ultimate grip.

Well?