MoPowered 27 T

Mods and Users, this may be a stretch but does meet criteria, however I will understand if it is not welcome. I finished and sold my last complete build ( Thread was titled; 76 Volare, yes a Volare) and have been working on a car I wanted since I was about 10. I am Mopar or no car so this will be powered by a EFI 318, 727 and 8-3/4. mostly this is a fabrication and assembly thread, very little in regards to the drive train other than freshen up. I will post a couple of pics in the first reply and I would like to get input as to whether the mods will allow the build and if my fellow Moparts members want to see it.

thanks in advance Henry aka modelmakerinc

Well this is it, pulled out of a shed in central Florida, it is 90% complete in mostly solid condition it will be a traditional build not chopped or channeled or crazy, it is to be a very respectful to its roots but have a healthy Mopar heart and Drivability.

Opinions should it stay or go? no hard feelings I can post elsewhere. Thanks

You are going to have to do something about the brakes, they aren't even hydraulic.

I would enjoy following this MOPAR powered build.

Long ram manifolds sticking out the sides on a BB 440 look really wild on a streetrod like that!

A relatively mild build with that lightweight of a car would be scary fast!

Definitely post updates here!

It should definitely stay.

Going to be mopar powered so I vote to stay. Plus I remember following your Volare build and you do awesome work, so can't wait to see the transformation of the new project.

Well over 100 views and no rejection and a few positives. So I thank you all for the support.

So I've had it for a little while and have considered exactly what I want to build so the stock chassis and everything below the floor had to go.

Here is the mock up of what I'm going for.

Don't know if you are going to fab your own frame or look at all the prefab ones out there but good choice in replacing it. Looks like you already got a good jump on the work, keep it up.

Sniper, I looked at at least half dozen chassis/ suspension fabricators and Boling Brothers was the only shop that has the jig / plans / measurements for a stock orientation full fendered model T coupe. (others could but for premium additional cost)

These guys are first class fabricators and can build as much or as little as you want, I had them build the basic chassis and supply (Multiple Sourced) front end components they have confidence in, and all the tabs gussets and link bars for a triangulated 4 bar set up on the rear.

I will be installing my own trans and motor mounts, front shock mount (the model T does not use front shocks) steering, brakes and rear end.

shipped to my door and just an awesome value. the pics are when it shipped and how it arrived.


https://www.bolingbrothers.com/ check out their site great stuff.

This reminds me of something Krass and Bernie would build in the old CarToons magazine.

I established ride height, wheel and tire combo plus stance so I was able to measure engine combo, radiator with fans and shroud.

This gave me engine position front to rear. I am well aware it will sit under /inside of cowl but the standard wheelbase, fenders and hood all will remain to factory specs..

This gives me a small window to fab the tranny mount.

I had Boling Brothers install their standard flange for SBC/Auto expecting to modify for Ma Mopars finest small block 727.

I am using a later style modified spool mount. Their mount flange is just a flat plate, i removed a center section for mount clearance and low transmission position.

Engine angle established to horizontal as planned chassis rake, chassis angle for reference. Engine mounts welded in. The brackets are close but I will need to add permanent spacers or shims because stacked washers are not acceptable 😎

Came across my first issue, that was not cheap and pretty bothersome.

There are many radiators that are available for a model T. But they universally all fail to mention their mounting position and they will not fit the factory shell or placement.

T buckets and "Hot Rods" place the radiator between the frame rails behind the crossmember which in turn changes the position of everything behind it.

I am building a factory wheelbase full fendered car so the radiator has to go above the crossmember/spring pocket.

The original radiator shell is sitting on top for reference, I had to buy a $1200 Griffin unit that is designed to fit under the factory Radiator shell.

I was watching an episode of Roadkill Garage where they were working on Dulcich's Chrysler boat. It used motor mount brackets very similar to what you have, no spacers needed. Of course, finding a set and having them match up to your welded in stuff is probably as likely as winning the Powerball, lol.

Sniper,

thank you for that however, The rubber biscuit style engine mounts are needed for some damping of the engine, many boats don't need rubber since the engine mounts directly to the boats stringers.

I was referring to the engine mount brackets that bolt to the block, they are not bent to the proper width, so are quite loose fitting onto the block. Little tough to see in the pics but there are a few washers taking up the gap temporarily,
not acceptable as a finish for me so i will be fabbing spacers. I wont have hood sides so the mounts are very obvious and need to have a clean install.

Yes, I understand what you are doing. Just mentioning that the marine brackets I saw on that jet boat look very similar to the ones you are using and putting a rubber cushion in there wouldn't be an issue, but just very likely to not bolt in place of what you have fabbed. Not much help though.

After engine and transmission placement established, I set out to install the rear axle
I will need to take 2" off each side but that doesn't stop me from adding the TFL tabs and lower shock mounts

Sorry for the sideways pictures, I'll try to fix when I'm on a PC.

I had to shorten the lower bars because the shock mounts were angled back.
Here are some shots of setting all the angles

I welded in the upper link axle tabs and measured for a tiny driveshaft

Mocked up front suspension to begin the brake plumbing, steering box, exhaust routing, nothing complete but mostly planned out to consider fuel routing. Next is modify the body for steel floors and firewall.

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While I think Boling Brothers do a spectacular job with their builds and fab, i sent them a little adjustment to their chassis design that i think should be incorporated.

It is the space allotted for mufflers, I have a full fender chassis so ground clearance isnt an issue but these bars really cause space issues if you were to use chambered mufflers and the car was low to the ground.
all I suggest is to add a small bend downward near the trans crossmember.

Might consider a heat shield under that master cylinder.

Brake fluid heats up, expands, brakes start applying all with your foot elsewhere.

Other than that, nice work.

Thanks Sniper, you know the saying Great minds think alike i have one made just need to install nutserts and bolt it up, the pics give the impression that the tube is much closer as well. I have worked on several A body big blocks where the header tube is much closer and more confined area and never experienced an issue.

I expect the i wont have trouble here since i will have the header and exhaust tubes Jet-Hot coated. still needs the O2 sensor installed and i dont plan to coat until getting ready for final assembly

Body setting in its location to rough in the seating position, steering column and assessing what i will do for mounts and floor structure. had my Dad (83) sit cause we are about the same size.
Made seat tabs and risers, seats are the narrowest I could find out of a KIA Rio, removed the arm rests, lumbar handles and the base tilt option, modified the tracks for mounting.

There are so many small modifications and changes that must get addressed, in the overall build they are never even considered when all said and done.

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Removed body off chassis to start body floor structure, did plenty of planning for mounts and to maintain as much original steel in the car. I used 1x3 rectangular tube for cross bracing that doubles as body mounts and nests into the modified original steel. 1" square tube and 1/2" square tube make the trans tunnel and firewall support. I had considered using only sheetmetal for the floor structure but for ease of fabrication I chose this route

This is the layout for flooring, you can clearly see the seat tabs and original body mount holes. I will address the trans tunnel when I get the shifter and I mount the body back onto the chassis.

the fire wall engine tunnel is next mocked up a cardboard template for the firewall and got the depth i need, trimmed the opening while keeping the integrity of the factory joint to the cowl.

The cowl rust and gas filler/ vent hatch were addressed plus the basic floor panels were cut. I will bead roll the floor and patch the lower 2.5: of the cowl. This car is real solid so its more of new fabrication rather than replacing alot. the rear quarters will need considerably more attention though.

The cowl rust and gas filler/ vent hatch were addressed plus the basic floor panels were cut. I will bead roll the floor and patch the lower 2.5: of the cowl. This car is real solid so its more of new fabrication rather than replacing alot. the rear quarters will need considerably more attention though.

Mounted the body to the chassis, had to make some mounts and source the finished hardware. installed the Lokar shifter for placement and trans tunnel dimensions, mocked the steering shaft and column for position

So, major brain Fart.

I actually welded in the driver side floor pan without adding a hatch for the MC. (its my first Hot Rod) . I figured I would add the hatch after but that wasn't the right choice anyway. But as it turns out I needed to re work all the geometry and panels for the lower firewall to better fit the steering column, brake pedal and trans tunnel. Since the floor panel with hatch is literally where I step to enter and exit, I used 16 gauge (.060) and welded in a piano hinge plus added support flanges. I also finished the tunnel, the floor from firewall to trunk is 95% i will be adding a couple small filler panels around the cowling and a removable "shelf" under the dash.

My initial steering set-up only used 1 u-joint but that gave me little flexibility in overall angle and finish mounting brackets, by going to a 3" shorter column with a 2nd u-joint i got a better placement and can use the column in all 5 positions of the tilt mechanism. I welded a bracket and support rod for the steering bracket to bolt to and milled the floor bracket for clearance to the brake pedal lever. I am very happy I chose to mount the steering column behind the dash panel so i can access all the wiring, switches and gauges without dropping the column.

Lots of good progress!

i mothballed this for a few months due to OVERload of WORK. good thing, but sucks at the same time. here is my contraption for wheeling it into the garage

A clever solution for rolling it about.