Garage Project

I started building this a couple years ago and am progressing as money will allow.
It will be a 28x40 with an 11x39 basement 9' high underneath the back half.
The garage level is set up to accept a 17x27' working bay with a 21x27 bay for car storage with a solid wall between the two.
There will be two pocket doors creating a 4' opening between the two sides. I managed to pick up a 4 post lift for the storage side.
After permits...public hearings and lawyer fees out of the way I have finally managed to make some progress. I'm planning on heated floors and using scissor truss's to add interior height for the lift.

Excavation and foundation work began in 2014... these pictures begin when work resumed in June of 2016. All block is 12" with the top course a 6" to create a pour stop for the concrete slab. You can see in the pictures the beam pockets where the steel beams will be placed.

The Basement wall is in center and had to be engineered to pass the county specifications due to the load created by the dirt against it.
The blocks are cut to create a bond beam with 2 layers of 3/4" rebar running the full length while 1 piece of 3/4" rebar runs vertically 32" oc.

The block work was completed and the beam pockets and bond beams were poured full of grout.
Steel plates were added to carry the point loads of the W8-15 beams yet to come.
The weld marks you see are where a J hook is welded to them and submersed into the grout.
They can be seen laying upside down on the wall in the last picture.

The beams are set into place and the metal decking stocked on top of them.

This is the point where all the hired help's work is complete. They managed to do all of that in a week. From here on out this is all mine to handle until wall framing is ready to start next spring.
I started laying out the metal deck...shooting it down and installing the expansion joint at the block for the floor slab. I at least now have a half-a$$'d basement to store materials in.

More expansion joint work and metal pan installation.

With enough work done to the metal decking to get reasonably dry storage downstairs I started waterproofing the foundation walls and installing the foundation drains. This proved to be both time consuming and back breaking work in the middle of the summer.
The drains are covered with filter sock and wrapped in a bed a gravel surrounded by drainage material.

It was about then that I realized I had better get under ground electric out to the future shed adjacent to the garage. Not to mention tie in the incoming electric service conduits.

Digging a 36" deep trench in the ground for the electric that was about 20' long is a PITA but I didn't have to rent a machine.
I also had to incorporate the storm water management underground plumbing into this area to be continued on later.
The entrance porch framing also began. I need this to double as a pour stop for the concrete slab.

Foundation drains continue at the basement wall in the area that will become the upper garage slab. I wasn't sure if water could make it to this wall or not so it received 2 coats of tar and the same drainage pipe and filter sock with gravel and material. They are on top of the foundation but that is 4" below the basement slab so any water should drain off.
These drains were the toughest because of the ground wanting to slide into the area you needed to work. I ended up doing these in 5' at a time increments and throwing the dirt I was removing back on areas that were completed.
Once this was complete the 70 tons of shale were brought in to fill the front where the floor is slab on grade.

Add in another 7 ton of #57 gravel topped off with 6 tons of Limestone dust and it is almost up to elevation. I used some water and a tractor along with the dually full of gravel to roll the shale for compaction. Then added the 57's and stonedust using a vibrating plate.
Finally I added the 1 1/2" foil faced rigid insulation for under the slab.

In case your wondering what the two large holes in the insulation are those are the areas of the floor where the slab is beefed up thicker with rebar for the point loads created by the four post lift. Its a 36" diameter hole about 12" deep and will eliminate any future problems.
Time to start turning down the vertical rebar from the basement wall and installing the rebar and wire mesh in floor.

About now is when the fun really starts. The 6x6 wire mesh and rebar were something that totally wiped me out. I used two rolls of the black wire tying everything together. Only to then begin installing 1200 linear foot of 1/2" pex tubing. (4 separate loops 300' each)
Sorry about the picture quality I think going from the AC to outside fogged it up.

The two holes in the metal deck with metal around them you see are pour stops for future AC and a place to lower engines and other heavy items into the basement.
I used 3/4" 90 degree pvc elbows to create the penetrations for the pex to go into the basement. This should make sure I have no future problems.
I have since added a pour stop for the slab at the front doors but haven't completed it yet. More pics to come as this progresses. The main goal for this summer was to complete the concrete slab and all of the ground work so grass could be planted in the spring. So far...so good.

Here is a drawing I did for the pex heating system in the floor. I used an overlay of the 6x6 metal mesh condition and then used the mesh spacing to develop a layout with 4 zones of equal length and near equal coverage. I'll have to take final pics of everything before concrete to make sure if I ever drill the floor nothing is in the way.
Also attached is the revised basement beam layout for the lift that gets installed above. I had to upgrade from a W8-13 to a W8-15 to manage the point loads the lift creates
As a running total so far there has been 10 truckloads of 57's used in the slab on grade and as back fill around trench and foundation drains. The average load weighed about 6,600 lbs and was unloaded by hand and distributed in 5 gallon buckets. 6 tons of limestone dust on top of that with the shale the total amount of materials imported was about 108 tons.

Wow.

Why did you use block vs poured foundation walls? Avoiding cost of pump? Access issues?

Could not tell from the pictures, but the interior block wall at the front of the basement I would have waterproofed as well.

Will be a nice shop when done.

Nice work. Looking forward to seeing finished project.

After numerous attempts to have 3 separate contractors bid on this I finally got one that did a site visit.
Because of the location being so far from the road and where a pump truck could actually set up and then be loaded by cement trucks it wasn't feasible. Its about 75' to the front away from a somewhat level portion of ground near the road. Originally that was the plan using the forms that would simulate brick for the outside.
The center wall at the basement only received tar 4' high with a drainage pipe at the bottom. With 15' of interior concrete slab in front of it and the front foundation dropping down a little over 3' I don't think water can get there.
I called the local contractor who did the excavation about this also. After looking at it he thought it was overkill to go 4' high but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
I have also ran a pipe from the front rh corner underground to the alley in the rear that will attach to a trench drain in front of the concrete aprons to the garage floor.
With the water filter material buried in the gravel about 20' wide this should catch the majority of water in a heavy rain from ever being able to get underground to cause a problem.
The last drawing indicates the pipe in purple, the dark grey at the doors is a 3' concrete apron and the dark area is the filter media buried in the gravel.

I have built two hillside homes... Your pics brought back some memories and some pain... LOL

Keep up the good work... Looks like you are doing it right...

very impressive

I have added the temporary shoring under the metal pan decking at the basement.

Wood was installed around the steel beams to prevent concrete from the upper slab pour from reaching the basement.
Several penetrations were made through the metal decking into the dividing wall above for electric and for return of air lines and such.
I still need to do a couple more near the panel for the floor heating to return low voltage thermostat wires.
Concrete pour of the slab is scheduled for Monday 10/17/16.

I also managed to get the fittings installed on the pex tubing and pressurized the system to 50 pounds.
I need to install a few more braces on the pour stop at the doors...clean up some leaves and maybe do a little caulking to prevent concrete from getting to the basement and it should be ready to pour.
Extended weather for Monday looks like partly cloudy and 77 degrees...80 for Tuesday with no rain shown till Thursday...

don't forgfet to put a thermal barrier exactly under the garage doors where they should seal to floor,we 3 2x6's then the apron is poured against the thermal barrier ,keeps cold weather from penetrating to your heated floor.

Concrete pour went off without any problems...
We used particle board to lay down over the pex tubing to wheel the concrete to the back corners.
Pex tubing stayed pressurized at 50#'s throughout.
Little Detroit there was no way to do the thermal break as you suggested. Had I stopped the slab under the center line of the garage doors it would have been easier...however the existing rebar and wire mesh stopped at the exterior of the 12" block.
I'll come back in the spring and install the aprons to transition from the gravel to the new floor. I'm thinking maybe 3' long with about 1/2" of slope away...

I ordered the concrete with fiber in it.
Typically you use wire mesh or fiber to prevent cracking...I opted for both...22 Yards of concrete later it is finished.
The concrete was finished Monday afternoon.
It has set long enough now that I can remove the pour-stop at the garage doors maybe tomorrow weather permitting.
I've been trying to come up with a plan for sealing or painting the floor.
The right half (about 22') will be storage only and I would like to do something nice on the floor. The other half will be a working bay and will get welded and painted on so I'm up in the air as to what to do with it...

.

Damn...now THAT's a project! Thanks for posting the pics. Will the floor support a 4 door Imperial??

I'll soon have a garage/pole barn (56 x 40'...heated floor) put up on some ground that once was 4-5' high on one side. Had considered partial concrete walls, but decided on flattening the ground. Will end up with 2 or 3' retaining wall 10 ft from the building, and slope the ground behind the retaining wall.

It will hold an Imp...or two...Since I have a dually I made sure of it...
I know not having flat ground is a pita...I spent a lot of years with cars stored at garages other than at home...paying rent and driving a half hour or twenty minutes away to work on them...No more...

RS23...that is a nice ride for sure...Its just not a 65 B Body...

The winter months will consist of busting my tail to pay for everything as much as possible so I can start the wall framing in the spring...
Somewhere between now and then I need to have a few conversations with Stu regarding the garage doors...
Once the temporary shoring is removed I may put some heat in there over the w/e's this winter and work down in the basement.
One good sign was we did get a little rain late this week and all the water runs to the floor drains...

So is this going to be one of those stories where we find survivor cars buried underground.lol

No worries there...Most of my stuff is junk...But this will eventually let me get back to work on the 65 Bel II...
You know...the one I started before I started to build the 70 Satellite??? Before the 69 "Banshee" Dart...before the 65 Coronet AWB and now the 72 Duster...
These cars are a sickness...

Managed to get all of the wood cap on the top course of block for the garage...
Installed the foam backer underneath so everything should be watertight for winter...
Then went down to the basement and removed all the temporary shoring from under the elevated slab...
I still need to remove the 4x6 wooden beams but I'll wait till I can get help one day...
Went and picked up the 2 windows for the ends today...maybe I can get those in tomorrow...

I am totally jealous! We can't do these kind of things down here where I live, not without having super expensive properties with plenty of land, or going further north miles away from anything.

Here's the pic with all of the wood cap on the block. This is how it will sit until spring when I build the rest.
Trick now will be to keep the leaves and crap off of it as not to stain the floor all up...
In the meantime I can still research efficient garage and entry doors and windows...

Looking very nice!

Great progress Lisa. Seriously well-engineered

.

Damn deplorables...

Even though I'm not working on this through the winter I do have a couple updates...
I happened to be on a project where the owner was going to throw away 26 4x10 sheets of 2" R-13 Polystyrene Thermax insulation with foil face on each side. That will work great with the 2" Z furring I have to fur-out the 3 basement walls that are not under ground. I'll cover them with plywood to finish them off...
I bought the windows for the basement but since they were only about 4' above ground I was trying to come up with a way to keep someone from being able to break in.
I bought some 3/4" solid bar and some 1 1/2" box tubing and made bars for both windows. I want to see what powder coating for these will run and then they're ready to install...

Guess I picked up another project this w/e...
This will make a nice addition once I spend some time restoring it...

.

So I had the truss and lintel drawings for the wood wall framing approved by the county. 1st material order for the wall framing portion is completed and will be sent out for a delivery late next week. The truss's and roof materials along with the doors and windows will be ordered a week or two later and we will see how everything progress's.
May have to get a couple 30 packs to get guys here when I stand the walls...

Y'all remember Murphy's Law???
I just got a refresher course...
So I order the entire wood package for the wall framing...3 days later I find I have had a bad dishwasher leak that was leaking under the new (5 year old) flooring and the cabinets in my kitchen...
So the package comes and I stack everything on the slab where I want it...
Seeing as how I'm a$$hole deep into the middle of replacing flooring and cabinets in the kitchen I decide to wait till the rainy season is over before starting framing...
Meanwhile I'm looking at the kitchen thinking..."Boy now would be the time to knock out a wall and make everything open concept"..."maybe a new glass tile back splash and all new counter tops with low voltage lighting underneath"..."new Hickory cabinets and LVP flooring"...
One of these days I'll learn to not think out loud...
Of course the Kitchen-witch loves all of this and needless to say she gets what she wants...
So now I have the kitchen "nearly" put back together enough to live in...Dad decides its time to start framing the garage...
We started by shooting the laser over the top plate checking it for up and down and found out that in a total of 96 linear feet (both ends and the back returning to both front corners) I only have about 1/16" variance in elevation.
My hats off to the masons to come 16+ courses high with block and be that accurate.
It's a shame whoever framed my kitchen floors couldn't have been that close...
If you haven't been paying attention I live on a bit of a slope...like 26 degrees where the garage is being built...
That makes for some interesting climbing to get where you need to be sometimes...After careful consideration Dad came up with a plan that so far has seemed to work very well...
So the shop walls will be 10' above the concrete floor. which means the top of them will be about 19' above the ground in the back...
Check out this homemade scaffolding system to be able to work at several locations at once...

I now have a temporary 46" wide platform that will run around 3 elevations from the beginning of the framing until the last piece of siding and gutter is installed. I can move the aluminum scaffold pics around to wherever I'm working and with the handrail and mid rail I don't have to worry so much about anyone falling. The upright's are 7' apart (the length of the scaffolding planks) and double as a bracket to attach a brace to hold the walls plumb until truss's can be installed. The pictures are 2 days of plotting out scaffolding and erecting it and almost one day of framing for Dad...
I hope I can still do everything he can still do when I'm 78 years old...

We decided to use Polystyrene rigid insulation in the corners where you can never get regular insulation installed and be able to keep it dry.
Laminating it between the outside 2x6's and then adding the one 2x6 for the opposite direction of framing makes a nice job and allows them to be prefabbed ahead of time...
I didn't really address this earlier but the exterior sheathing you see attached to the bottom plates in the earlier pictures is already held to the final elevation for the top so as to not have to cut any sheathing to install it...

Anxious to see the walls and roof erected. It will be a great looking building!

Glad your Dad is contributing. That kind of experience is invaluable, as are the memories.

I sold a lot of 12" tall picture windows for shops that were mounted up high for light but were too small to get through for thieves...

Hickory cabinets in my ongoing remodel....

Yours are very similar to mine...I added low voltage lighting under the cabinets...EZ to do and not a lot of coin...

Wall framing is continuing...I'll try to take a couple more pics tonight before it gets dark...

I used hickory also in my master bath... I will use absolute black granite counters in the kitchen for more contrast....

So the weekend framing went well considering the heat.
Back wall is nearly finished and the far side wall framing is continuing.
Truss supplier is scheduled to field measure on Wednesday.

We framed the front wall for a few hours yesterday.
Bearing plates at the end of the lintels were established at 6" and 4 jack studs were installed.
I'd say another part of a day installing the LVL lintels at the front doors and the sheathing and its ready for truss's.

Great build. I hope other garage thread posters look at your build to see framing and shoring done. They needed it. Meticulous craftsmanship, kudos to you and your dad.

Couple questions, how much is it to extend your permit each year?
Also, in picture #1, looks like it will be a 6 point turn to get in the 16' door, especially a dually, is it the photo perspective?

For your 16' LVL header, one of my projects story:
I went from a 2x's with steel flitch plate to a LVL back in the day when they were filtering down to residential. Engineered with no deflection (has roof loads too). 23 years later there is sag. It could be specific variables with that house or old glue tech, and I still specify LVLs for other's door headers. But for future personal builds, I'm debating whether to add a flitch plate to LVLs as fail-safe support.

Permit is every two years...I can't remember how much each time...I know its better than interest on a loan to do everything at once.
The 16' side of the garage is car storage only.
There's almost 20' in front of the door. I had the dually down there and it would work in one shot by backing in but does require a couple 3 pt turns to pull in.
As for lintels I went back and looked at the load ratings and the point loads. It seems they are way more than needed but I guess there is no way to be sure.
The 16' door only required a 2.7" bearing plate at each end. We increased that dimension to 6" of solid wood on each end. It's two fold as now I know I have 9" of solid blocking for the first 9" away from each door at the sides.
I installed the 3 17' lintels last night but no pics yet. I have them loaded up with 3" screws and plan on installing carriage bolts at 2' intervals hi and low thru everything once its all up. I'd think securing them in the ends to the king studs should also help with any deflection at the jack studs.
You know the drill...overbuild it and try to cover all the bases...

So with the lintels installed the studding above was completed and OSB sheeting installation was ongoing when the rains came...Glad the drainage ditch I put in did what it was supposed to do...
Need to install about 3 1/2 more pieces of OSB and all the wall framing will be complete.
Truss engineer was on site yesterday to measure for the truss's...they should go into production today and will have about a 10 working day lead time until delivery.
After speaking with the truss rep I had the end trusses changed to a "drop down".
Basically they will stand on top of the framing with the top of them being flush with the bottom of the adjacent truss's. This allows for a 2x6 (same as the top chord on the trusses) to bypass the end truss while fastened to the first flatbottom truss and create a 16" overhang on each end of the building.
The overhand at the front will be 3' in attempt to maybe keep a big snow away from the garage doors while the back will be the typical 12".

I like how a lot of water just disappears now rather than sitting around in a big puddle...
In the meantime I can pick up the hurricane clips for the trusses and begin their layout on top of the walls.
Maybe have some time to start getting stuff ready for Carlisle...

Here is a picture of the truss layout...
Areas above the garage doors and 9" to each side with truss's highlighted in red will be cathedral ceiling.
Areas highlighted in green are flat bottom trusses with a ceiling height of 10'.
The change allows for about 3' 6" or so of added height at the areas of the garage doors where the lift is to be installed.
Garage doors are out for pricing now with the wall mounted opener...R-17 insulated doors with Stockford 3 windows in the 3rd row from the bottom...the track profile to follow the cathedral ceiling roof line similar to the 2nd pic.
(Pic stolen from Stu...)

All of the exterior OSB sheathing is installed. I managed to put another 8 tons of gravel in front of the garage and raise everything up to about 2" below final finished elevation. I want to install the concrete aprons in front and then I'll top everything off.
Truss's are to be delivered on Thursday the 29th. I have a crane scheduled for Saturday to set all of the truss's. The balance of the material order for the roofing components was completed and sent out this morning. Decided to install 5/8" sheathing and a synthetic roofing underlayment (similar to roof felt) and going with a new metal roof.
I got the quote back for the garage doors...and will be installing two Liftmaster 8500 shaft openers.
Managed to find a couple new tools to add in once its completed. A friend got hard up for cash and I got a good deal...

Nice progress! I've built a few, never on a "cliff" like that. Fun projects they are. Keep up the excellent work and the building will outlive your kids...

Thx Shooz...
I picked up the Hurricane clips and completed installing them on Wed the 28th.

The truss's and materials were delivered on the 29th as promised. Crane was here Saturday morning for about 3 1/2 hours and set the truss's.

It worked out real well just lowering the trusses into the hurricane clips as that made for no layout...Not really a time consuming job but there was a lot of climbing around to frame the temporary shoring for the truss's...
I was able to stock 32 sheets of OSB on the roof...That sure beats sliding them up a ladder...

I did manage to get about 3/4 of the bracing completed and installed the ledger board at the front yesterday. Chalked a line from end to end and began the roof sheeting...
Just might take tonight off after a brutal day of working in the heat all day...

I like that I have 10' high walls and ceilings. Using the cathedral truss's I get 13' to the peak and with the extended overhang in front it doesn't look like a big commercial garage in a residential area...
A few pics from the inside...

Man I am totally jealous!!

It's coming together!

Are you going to secure a small area for a couch and a TV/man-cave area?

Already have a TV ready to go...No plans for a couch I have a 16 x 20 mancave area in the basement...maybe if I could unload a car I would have room...


nah...

So I took some time off of working on this to go to Carlisle...
On the front side I began installing the roof sheathing and finished up the ladder framing at the end truss's.
When I started the sheathing with a 23 7/8" piece that allowed me to have a 2 1/2" gap at the top for the roof vent.
Doing the layout ahead of time meant that the top sheet could just be installed and not have to be cut. By cutting the first sheet in half I ended up with nearly no waste.
Front side sheathing finished... 1/2 way there...

I wasn't happy with the 1' overhang at the back side and added an extra 1' at the ends of the truss's to make a 2' overhang.
All of the climbing around bracing in the rafters made assembling the eaves at both ends difficult but persistence does pay off.
I installed the 2x6 at the fascia and then began installing the roof sheathing on the back side. No big deal right...It's only about 19' down from the bottom edge to the ground...

All of the roof sheathing installed...

I dropped the extra coin for the "Titanium" roofing paper rather than using felt. This stuff claims it can sit for 180 days before the roofing is installed...I hope mines done in a week...

While everything above was going on I also needed to get the garage doors openings ready.
I used the white PVC trim around the openings...installed the added 2x6 framing the garage door company requested and added the blocking to the ceiling rafters for the track installation.

I decided to wrap the interior 2x6's with aluminum rather than have to paint around the garage door tracks later. It makes for a nice clean install.
The gap between the PVC trim and the aluminum will be covered with the garage door seal trim.

A couple things I noticed when framing this...
A) It's wood...it's seldom straight and not always the same dimension and thickness as the one beside it in the stack.
B) Use string lines from known points and leave those lines up that they can be checked periodically as your building.
C) Don't let someone talk you into loading the roof with the roof sheathing prior to having the fascia boards on. In the end it's easier to haul it up a ladder than deal with the point loads on the truss's.
D) It's not any harder to overbuild things rather than cut corners although it does cost a little more.
E) NEVER trust that anything is straight without checking and confirming it. Lines and lasers are your friends...

Enclosed is a few pics of ways I found to correct some issues I ran into as I was building this.

I do need to give a shout out to my Dad and brother for the help and knowledge that has been shared.

For now I'm dried in...
Well... the roof anyway...

Very nice build!

The attention to detail on this build is awesome! I'm totally jealous...

The metal roof installation occurred Saturday. I found two scratched panels in the delivery so new ones will be delivered this week.
Color is as close as I could get to what I wanted...
This is the back side less the last panel and the end-cap.

The installers developed a layout on the panels and pre-drilled for the screws on 6 panels at one time.
Then save the top panel and use that layout for the next six panels.
It makes it easier for their install plus makes all the screws line up perfectly when completed.
It's metal so this stuff is never perfect but I think it looks great...and now I'm about 90% dried in...

Total installation time was only about 5 hours for the metal roofing...
That let me work on installing the tyvek on the back side and I managed to get the one window on the South elevation installed.
All in all a very productive day...

Looks like it's coming together pretty good

Hey Q what's the blue car in the background

These two??
65 Bel II 4 door and a 64 Polara 2dr H/t...Both for parts...Two more things I should have already been finished with...Just not enough hours in the day...

The rest of the roof metal was installed Saturday...
I know it doesn't look like much but I got all of the wood framing finished for the 36" soffit at the front.
I moved over to the east elevation and installed the home wrap and the window and door.
I picked up all of the siding...soffit and J trims this morning.
I need to p/u 6 4" round light boxes to install for the exterior sconces at the front wall and at all of the doors.
Tonight the transmission comes out of the 69 Dart to fix a broken flex plate and install a slightly bigger convertor.
I won't be back into this until Wednesday.

The windows, door frame and the door sill were set in a bed of silicone sealant.
The inside gaps were then caulked back to the wood framing.
The bottoms of the windows were not caulked on the outside so as to not trap water if it were to penetrate the window frames.
Window's were purchased with the J channel for the siding already incorporated into the frames.
Door frames were ordered for 2x6 walls with extended jambs and the PVC trim and frame assembly that is designed to not rot out.

A couple pics of the soffit framing and a stack of siding and soffit that will be the next phase to begin.
All siding and soffit are Mastic Products.
Color for the siding is "Harbor Grey".
Grey J channel will be used on the ends with eaves under the soffit and around the door frames while white soffit trim will be used at the front and rear elevations at the rear of the soffit.
I'm going to make all of the exterior fascia and soffit trim using the .040 aluminum typical to the inside at the garage doors rather than the thin rolled products readily available.
I have some pretty neat materials ordered for the front elevation...no maintenance at all...
I'll post pics once they come in...
Garage door supplier was on site and measured the openings after the trim installation so once they arrive they will be installed also.

The garage door install is scheduled for Monday and Tuesday...
I spent all last night installing all of the light boxes and the siding blocks for the electrical devices.
Set the laser up and shot all 4 elevations with a control line to measure from.
I was able to start installing the siding tonight on the east elevation.
I'll continue with the back tomorrow and then fall back and finish the eave above.
It's hard to beat using the windows with the J trim for the siding incorporated around them. Turns out to be a really clean finish...

The options for vinyl sideing are pretty cool nowadays.. They were not around when I did my first house and it was alot more work....

Saturday was a good day as I managed to set the back door and get all of the siding and soffit on the rear elevation.

Sunday was a short day.
We built the scaffold on the east elevation and installed the balance of the exterior sheathing on the truss's.
I cleaned up for a while and moved material around for the garage door installation on Monday.

They managed to get the 10' garage door installed today. The 16' door is scheduled for tomorrow...
The tracks allowed the door to be 4" below the trusses at the back side.
The Liftmaster 8500 garage door opener was also installed today.

They managed to get the 16' garage door installed today...
Just started raining here so i doubt I get to do anything tonight...

WoW
Garage project is really coming out great.
I'm jealous.

Looking great, 'kick

This type of window install would not be allowed here.

I managed to get most of the aluminum trim bent up for the eaves so if the rain stays away tomorrow I'll work on that.
I have a friend who is also building a new garage and borrowed a LED light fixture from him to try in mine.
It's a high bay light with 20,000 Lumens.
Somewhat pricey but not as bad as some I have seen.
It is so bright that its almost a distraction...I feel like I'm working in something using the old halogen light stands that light everything up fine but if you look at them they're blinding...
Granted these pics aren't the greatest but it really seems to cast a lot of shadows creating dark areas..
See what you think...I may need to come up with a better plan...

This is the fixture turned off with a couple 4' led tube lights I had for temporary lights on instead.
One pic from outside with the door open and then closed.
Its definitely bright but being a high bay fixture designed for taller ceilings it feels like a big spotlight.
I think I need to look at less Lumens and more fixtures to eliminate the shadowing...

.

They're tall enough for my junk...
Fortunately they're not tall enough for that...darn...
I installed the rest of the soffit...flashing and siding on the East elevation.
I used the .040 Aluminum rather than the thin stuff...
It is a bright white and really pops against the grey siding and the roofing.
Finally I get a look at it without the scaffolding...
Now to repeat it on the other side...

It really makes things a lot easier when you don't use typical rolled flashing. This is all made from one piece of aluminum...Brake everything square and it will fit like a glove...

Very, very impressive!

Looks like it is coming along nicely

Thx guys...

I got the scaffold plank re installed on the west elevation and put the tyvek and installed the last window.
I've been waiting on these PVC pre-made corners to come in and wouldn't you know one of them was damaged during shipment.
I installed the one on the west elevation and started running the siding last night. With a little luck I should be able to get the other aluminum trim installed over the w/e.
Still waiting for the vertical board and batten siding I ordered for the front to come in...

Although it is just a garage most construction practices are the same as if this were a house on the exterior.
Taxman came around today...Its not even finished and he was looking to access a value for tax purposes...
I did get the siding on the west elevation finished as high as I could reach last night and built up the scaffold to finish up the balance.
A good rest of the week and maybe by Sunday I can have 3 of the 4 elevations finished.
Vertical board and batten siding for the front is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow.
I still need to order the brick for the front elevation...factory is in Texas so depending on where this may be an issue...

One of the privileges of living in America.....

Gots to take care of thems thats dont gots as much as you...

Nice project
Craftsmanship looks superb.
Was an outswing door considered?
Not from your parts, so I'm asking

The door on the east elevation was set up for a RH in swing. All doors are 3/0 6/8. The two doors on the back are out swing. One LH reverse (basement) and one RH reverse. Both will receive lock guards and basement hardware will be a panic bar with internal frame mounted latch. East door was set up as an in swing so a screen-glass door could be mounted in the future...

All of the exterior sheating...tyvek...siding...soffit and fascia on the west elevation is now complete...
No more high work...
I removed the scaffold at the west and set up a platform out front and began running the soffit and fascia there.
The snow rails came in for the roof so I'm going to install those as well...

Soffit run on the west and fascia on the front...

I finished all of the soffit under the 3' overhang in the front on Monday.
I finished installing the fascia on the front last night.
There are a couple small waves that will hide behind the gutter system as will the attachment pin nails...

Managed to get started on the PVC trim around the garage doors and the vertical siding.
The siding is from a company called Celect. It's made from a PVC type plastic...seems like a really nice deal since you're not supposed to ever have to paint it.
I installed 1" Styrofoam insulation between the siding at the exterior sheathing.
I mocked up the light fixture but may opt for a slightly bigger one instead...

So far I really like it although you need to have a very level substrate or it shows...
The small area below it will get brick at a later time...

Looking good I found my new storage unit for the winter

You may want to check the cost first...

I completed all of the trim around the garage doors and all of the siding at the front. Traded up to a larger light fixture and installed the small LED motion lights under the overhang.
I still need to install the snow rails and the gutter front and back.

Looks nice! Do yourself a favor, and get someone to do seamless gutters for you. They will be done in an hour! Spring for the bigger gutters while you're at it, if it doesn't hurt the budget too bad.

The company I purchased the exterior products from (roofing-siding-soffit) is a supplier of nearly everything for the exterior.
They have a truck mounted unit and will set up on site and run-off gutter to your desired lengths...Then they sell all of the hidden hardware for the installation. Even a leaf screen system if desired...
Using them will allow me to bypass any labor from a subcontractor.
I figure if I can do the groundwork...the roof and all other encompassed framing and coordination maybe I can handle hanging the gutters too...

ON a "this old house" episode they claimed the larger "rounded" bottom gutters worked better for drainage and cleaning....

I installed the snow rail on the front elevation Monday night and am having the one piece gutter for the front and back delivered tomorrow. I opted for the larger gutter rather than the smaller one. That should take care of everything on the front elevation that I need the scaffolding for...
In the meantime I figured I might as well complete the porch decking and handrails. Need to pick-up a few more pickets and that's one more project completed...

Your garage is looking great and you have certainly put in a lot of work, well done.

Thx...
I installed the gutter at the front elevation on Saturday morning. This is a much better system than what I had installed many years ago.
I mocked up 3 "story pole" posts at the correct elevations and attached them to the scaffolding. Two of us lifted it up and sat it on the posts easy peasy.
I was able to get 1" of fall from right to left without it being terribly noticeable. I only mocked up the downspout as I needed to move it out some in case it rains before I get everything connected together.
It wasn't up 10 minutes before the wife came outside and complained about seeing the attachment brackets...
Guess I'll be installing the leaf guard after all...

She's complaining about the hidden gutter brackets, but somehow missed all of those ice thingies a foot up the roof? LOL

Yea go figure...
Snow guards my a$$ they're friggen leaf catchers...
Well anyway the leaf guards were ordered Monday and once installed I can tear down the scaffolding on the front.
I did get a few more pics...the gutter slope isn't too noticeable...

Tell your alter-ego to chill. OUTSTANDING work!

.

That's one of us...Better off you tell her...

Since I was basically just waiting for the leaf guards and had loaned out a piece of scaffolding from the one I had out back I didn't really have anything to work on on the exterior...I went ahead and started adding the 6" wood walls around the porch.
Scaffold came back Saturday and I completed the fascia, snow rail and gutter on the rear elevation.
Eventually in front of the wood walls will be a 6' wide ramp that will lead to the basement and the existing shed.
Just one more little piece of the puzzle finished...
first pic is a before shot...

Here's the rest of the pics...I only have 2 more walls to go. From the corner you see at the left back 5' 6" at a 45 degree angle towards the garage and then one more 45 degree corner to against the foundation. I can finish this once the underground pipe for the Storm Water Management is installed.

On a side note when building these do not mix wood you bought a year ago and new wood unless you can keep the rows the same...The new wood is so wet it is about 1/8" higher per board than what has dried out.

Looks great but...........

I will never use wood again for any in ground/landscape project..

Had some used RR ties that were full of carpenter ants once... YES, they were creosoted....

Yup, even pressure treated lumber does not last long in dirt.

I haven't ever had any issues with it...not saying now that I won't but I have a couple areas where they were built and spiked together that have been there for almost 15 years...They still look like they did when they were built.

I worked on the west side and removed all of bracing for the temporary platform and installed the starter strip...tyvek and the last row of siding. I ended up with the bottom row of the siding 3/4" of an inch below the exterior sheathing...A little silicone inside the gap and I should have no bug or moisture problems...
Picked up a cube of Brick on Thursday for the front elevation...May say screw it and install myself rather than wait on the mason...
Last pic is the brick on the front of the house...I wanted them to match but that brick has been out of production since 2000. Its similar to but different than what I have...I can live with it...

Friday...Saturday and Sunday it was back to doing the ground work for the wood retaining walls and connecting the rain gutter piping together. I dug the trench for the piping and added the fall so it will drain...Damn thing need to be a little better than 3' in the ground where I had the extra dirt piled up...
Really only about a foot deep after final grade is established...

Added the wood walls and started putting all the dirt I just dug out into the flower beds...
Digging and tamping dirt is really a younger mans game...
Hauling around wet 4x6's is no cakewalk either...
Looks like I'll be adding a small section of landscape blocks in the corner the hide the tar on the foundation...

I picked up the leaf guards for the gutters and installed them front and back...Got all of the scaffolding removed from the front and started tearing down the temporary scaffold at the back. The front gutter is tied in to the Storm Water Management system...once I get the back scaffold down at the corner I can tie in the rear.

Here is a pic of how I tied the wood walls into the foundation to keep anything from moving. These 12 gauge steel clips we use at work and work perfect to tie in the wood also.
Maybe the best pic I have been able to take of the front...much better without the scaffolds...
Prior to finishing up working on this before winter I would still like to:
Get brick completed at the front...
Install posts at the back for the porch and stairs to the basement...
Install the bottom layer of Tyvek and siding...
Install basement windows and bars...
Install basement door and light above door...

At that point everything is sealed up tight and can be locked up...
I still have a full kitchen remodel to complete for the wife...

I had to switch gears and begin working on the back porch where the stairs will be to the basement.
In walking out the back door the distance to the bottom door is too close to run the stairs straight down along the back wall. I wanted to use a typical 7.5/12 stair riser and tread.
There will now be a small area 5' wide and 4 1/2 foot long that will be the landing and then 2 steps down to an 8' long landing 3' wide with with two steps down to a corner landing with the balance of steps running down the wall towards the door.
I installed the two posts for the 3' by 8' landing on Saturday.
Pressure treated 6"x6"x16' posts buried 32" in the ground in Quickcrete.
I used 3" of gravel under the posts and will add some more Quickcrete at the top to head water away from the post bases.
Pics are a little hard to follow until I finish removing all the bracing for the temporary platform around the outside...

Did I mention this was built on a hill???

I gotta say your garage is a work of art. I'm continually amazed at the attention to detail you've demonstrated through these postings.

I'm embarrassed to go out to my polebarn shop.

Very, very well done!

I, too, live on a hill and need another building to complement my current three car attached.

So when can I expect you?????

Continued kudos!

Thx...Much appreciated...


Shooz...Are you familiar with the term SOL???

It'll take me another good solid year to finish the garage interior with some of the things I have planned and most of the winter to button up the witch's kitchen...
After that I will need to pay for it...and that's where you come in...

Jerry should have some free time...unless he's watching TV with Tom...he might be rubbing that purple thing...




















The car that is...

.

I received the final approved as built drawings back from the County today for the Storm Water Management System.
I didn't document it here but it was a lot of work.
Basically it stores all of the garage roof water and then drains it slowly back out.
The money spent on this alone could've easily been an A body driver to kick the guts out of...maybe even a Fat B...

Nice work. The opening you made is good and it seems like you are working hard towards it. Looking forward to see full finished project pictures.

What a great job you did on your shop/garage.
I am amazed on how you put everything together!

Like a lot of old car projects I have been neglecting this for most of the summer...
I managed to get back into steadily working on it again...
I passed the electrical close-in inspection on 10/17/18. Only needed to install a single GFI at the first receptacle on the circuit to pass.
Also installed the entire circuit for both garage door openers.
I have all of the lighting circuit completed in the basement in 1" PVC. It will allow for (6) 4' LED lights to be installed on the bottom of the metal pan decking. 6 lights for a 12x40 storage space 9' 6" high should be plenty.

I've been chipping away trying to complete small projects that don't have a huge cost impact.
Where the basement windows are at ground level I decided I wanted to make bars for them so they couldn't be broken into.
I fabbed the bars up last year from 1 1/2" box at the top and bottom with 3/4" box at the sides.
I installed 3/4" solid bar stock 5" on center drilling the top and bottom bars and then assembling everything and welding it together. Finally got primer and paint on them for installation behind the basement windows. I still need to install the PVC Trim around the window frames but there sure isn't much daylight left when you get off of work at 4:00...

Since I can work inside I started installing the trim around the inside of the garage windows...the balance will need to be completed once the drywall is finished and painted...
Managed to finally get a basement door...Paint on the inside is finished...once its dry I'll spray the outside and install it.
Completed the down spout for the SWM system to capture the water from the back side of the garage roof...
I have a mason coming Saturday to install the brick at the 3' 6" high openings beside the garage doors...

I have 2" Z Furring and 2" rigid insulation to install in the 3 exterior walls in the basement...
The sooner I can get that completed the sooner I can get into building the panel for the in floor heating and sorting out what I want to use for a heat source...The pex is in the concrete ready to go with 4 zones...
Leaning towards a propane tankless water heater...I have no access to natural gas on my road...

I started installing the Z furring and the R-13 Thermax foil face insulation in the basement.
I ripped down 2x6's into (2) 2" strips and tap con-d them in around the window and door openings so I have a substrate for trim...
It's really time consuming when your doing the framing, insulation and electrical all at the same time...But it's also one and done...

The west wall is finished minus going back and taping the seams...
This wall will have plywood attached and become the area where everything for the radiant in floor heating will be attached.
On to the back wall where I also need to incorporate the electric boxes and pipe...everything is 1" PVC with 12 gauge wire set up for a 20 amp circuit.

About the time I get to the back door I'm looking at this and thinking maybe I don't want to install anything on the face of the framing after taping the insulation...
It's very reflective and actually brightens everything up a lot...
I used the sheets laying down in a full 4' x 10' length and installed the first one on a Z furring channel at the floor and the second sheet against the bottom of the steel beams. This created a chase in the wall that allowed for the PVC pipe for electrical to be installed in.
Once insulated and taped it is the finished product.

I managed to get the opposite end (last one) basement window and the security bars installed this evening.
I also installed some blocking inside where I'm putting in an overhead rack for long items and something to anchor the stand up shelving back to the wall.
I also blocked out for the 220 power for the Air Compressor. I'm going to surface mount the power for it so I can add a liquid tight pigtail in the future...
Supposed to be nice yet tomorrow...I may try to get outside and install the PVC trim on the basement windows while I still have daylight...

West elevation window is 100% complete...
The PVC trim is a little harder to work with but makes for a nice finished product without any painting...
One down one to go...The trim for the east is cut...should be able to install it tomorrow night...pending no rain...

You have to worry about break-ins out in the woods where you are???
Looking good. I personally would have treated the wood where it comes in contact with the block. I know the feeling well of time consumption when doing everything yourself. Keep plugging away and soon it will be done.

The blocking for the top and bottom of the windows was a piece of pressure treated 2x6 leftover from the porch handrail framing so it should be good...
As for the bars...They put a prison in about 2 miles from me about 15 years ago...They're right...the guys are locked up and don't cause any problems...but some of the trash they bring with them does...

The mason came Friday and installed the brick at the front elevations between the doors and at both ends...

I'm still working on the basement...since the space is kind of tight I decided to install some overhead "racking" to have a place to store extra long construction items...siding...soffit...trim and the like...

The racking system has two boards that are tap con'd into the wall with two levels of storage above...The first section is 34" wide and will store things up to 8' long...The second section is 20" wide and can store things up to 14' long...

I also finished the insulation at the south and east wall and added it the electrical piping for the compressor...along with the trim inside the basement window sill...

One of the two shelving units I have I got painted and installed...once its dry enough I can move everything over from the second one and then spray and install it also...

I began building the wood racking for all of the totes I have parts in for the 4 different cars...
In a 10 foot span I can put 6 of the larger totes at the bottom and then there is room for 7 of the smaller totes on the 4 rows above plus maybe 4 more at the top between the beams...

No more stacking them on top of each other and having to move them all to look in one...

Nice progress, as always. Love all the details!

Thx Shooz...
Progress is slow but always moving forward.
I got the basement door hung and an interior latch installed.
Still need to install the panic bar...
The mortar at the brick in front is almost dried out and has turned lighter...
All of the framing for the shelving is complete...plywood should go on tonight...

The electric for the basement receptacles is tied into the panel upstairs and all of the plugs and covers are installed...
Basically everything on the east elevation is pretty complete...
I have one 8' x 8' section of insulation to finish and then tape everything on the west end and I can install the plywood for the in floor radiant heating system...

Working Friday night and Saturday I was able to get a few things buttoned up...
Plywood is completed where the shelving for the totes is...
I finished all of the plywood on the west wall and installed the last piece of 2" insulation and taped all of the seams...

I permanently installed two of the lights and swapped the tubes out for the LED tubes.
These are just the cheap 4' tube fixtures from Lowe's at about 28.00 each with GE LED tubes added...I shot a ceiling clip to the metal pan deck and used 3 links of the chain included with the fixtures and bolted them up...Just plugged them in and they're finished...If ever needed I can unbolt them and swap them out in the future if anything happens...

There has been a little more progress...
Sunday was decent enough to take the other set of shelving outside and sand and paint it. Once it dried I got it installed into the recessed blocking.
This corner area is supposed to be for all the home and construction related supplies rather than having everything upstairs in the garage...

With all of the insulation finished I was able to go through and remove all the excess insulation materials and start getting things organized.
I built a second overhead rack for storing long items and a place to store the 24' extension ladder.

The 3" x 3" tubing on the rack was two 21' lengths that were being thrown away at work...I'll turn them into something useful...

I added a brace to the front of the wood rack that will store the totes...
Started scraping some of the mortar off of the concrete floors and cleaning them up some...

The basement slab set outside for over two years with concrete blocks stored on it so it's not going to clean up great but its only a storage area...

Third picture is before any construction....

Last picture is the front with the brick installed...

This is what it would have looked like with a white roof...Glad I didn't go there...

Finished cleaning the basement slab and got the concrete stain finished. 2 coats applied and I have enough for a final coat.
I'm going to have to wait for warmer weather to finish this up.

I added 6" to the bottom plywood shelf since the longer totes wanted to hang off the shelf.

I wasn't happy with leaving the foil insulation exposed...it just looked too unfinished...
Priced out plywood...then have to paint it...
Decided to go another route using white Masonite....muuuuch better...
I added recessed blocking in the wall for a an old 3' x 7' door I had as a countertop. Then capped the ends with a 2x4 to keep things from rolling off.
With 24 1/2" deep base cabinets left over from the kitchen I still had a gap behind them so I built shelves that are 7' long for storing trim and roll bar tubing.
Then added 3 wall cabinets above...
The Masonite is the same as the white pegboard...I bought one sheet...cut it down and installed it where I needed to hang tools...

I decided to use an MDF trim that is already primed white at the seams of the Masonite and as a base at the bottom of the wall.
Three different sizes at 1 1/2", 2 1/2" and 3 1/2" wide.
Installed the Masonite at the east wall and added another section of pegboard for construction tools only.
I also started moving tools and supplies out from the basement of the house and upper garage so that everything is organized in one area...
All of the different nails...screws...anchors...shots and pins and such makes for a lot of differing individual fasteners...
I bought 12" wide MDF shelving and created a storage system utilizing storage bins and empty screw containers to infill the area below the upper cabinets...
These are a small metal storage bins and the shelving is set up for two containers high and two containers deep in each row...
The red ones are just plastic but are also set up for two deep...
The best part is I still have a 24" countertop with 12" of storage behind it and plenty of room to tinker with stuff without being too small of a countertop...
It will all be a little less "crowded" once I get the upstairs finished and move the car related stuff upstairs...

The also got panic bar installed on the back door...
Also finished moving some more tools down from the upper garage...
Believe it or not as cold as it has been (mid 20's at night) I have been able to heat this small space with only this tiny heater...

Looks good and definitely brightens things up, but way too organized. Shops are supposed to be messy so you spend half hour every time you are looking for a tool.

Superfreak yours looks organized...
But your right...bad thing is when your doing it for the 1st time you forget where you put things and still get to spend the half hour anyway...

We had this organizer setting in the basement of the house...not sure where it came from but it turned out to be pretty handy.

I needed something simple to put like items in to get them out of the cabinet drawers and metal bolt bins...It's a little unconventional but worked out pretty well...

Again some of this will get moved upstairs once the working area of the garage is finished but for now everything is organized...

After the post that was in the General Forum regarding garage insurance and taking pictures of tools and possessions I've been trying to document stuff as I go. You just never know...

I had a roll of labels left so I figured I'd label each bin to make everything easier...

I'd suppose you could do the same thing with an old metal filing cabinet...

Not a lot of construction going on but I have been moving parts over from the basement of the house...upper garage and storage for my 65 Coronet and 65 Belvedere II.
It's starting to fill up a little more...
There is a lot of parts condensed into the totes as nearly all of them are completely full.
Top shelf has odd shaped boxes of parts...and I have been trying to take an inventory of what else I need to get or need something nicer than I have...I really thought I had most everything for my 65 Bell II...Not so much...

A few goodies that are already tucked away...
The last one is the inside of what has to be cleanest dash frame I've ever seen...

I got a new phone in January and all of the new pictures are too large to post here...

You can find a continuation here... https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/new-garage.123463/