Side exhaust cover test model

I wanted to see if I could come up with something that looked a LITTLE better more than function and it would be full length to the back tire.I could make the cover straight up/down along the pipe and not below the bottom of the pipe.I figure I would ask risking criticism.(be kind)

I think I would make it two piece, one that would attach under the rocker, maybe at the pinch weld, then extend out from under the rocker as far as needed, then bend down 90 degrees. The 2nd part would attach to the first part, then extend straight down as far as needed with a 45 - 90 degree bend back under the exhaust at the bottom. Mounting the 1st piece could be a pain, but I think it would look better.

What you have now looks like a quick coverup, and I don't like the idea of the visible screws into the rockers.

Was that kind enough? Gene

Most covers like that have holes in them to allow the heat to escape otherwise the underside of the car gets hot.

Problem might be finding a prepunched sheet thick enough.

I appreciate the info and ideas. The 1/2" pinch in the rocker to mount the shield I have not been able to clip on a body clip to screw into.I am trying to use holes that are there and not make new 1s to hold up the shield keeping it simple.
ps:I wonder if I can just bolt something to the exh pipe itself.1 more thing the ss perferated cover like on a Vette that bolts to the pipe is too much $$ I think it was over 100$ a side so that is out but I could make an aluminum 1.

Maybe you could use something like a muffler clamp around the pipe at the front and the back, then have holes in the cover that fit onto the U bolt threads. A longer U bolt, like threaded rod bent around the pipe to fit into the steel bracket part of the clamp with a couple nuts on that holding the clamp firmly in place on the pipe, then slide the cover over the U bolt, and add a couple of those stainless acorn nuts to hold the cover. If you bolt the cover to the pipe, a simple curved piece would probably work out pretty well. At least 2, and maybe 3 clamps per side would work, the hard part would be to position it so the cover is level to the rockers, front to back. The nice part of a cover bolted to the pipe is you can make the cover as long as you want it.

As far as the cover, thicker aluminum might work OK, as long as its not right against the pipe, my concern with thin aluminum would be its ability to withstand the heat and keep the form. I would think the aluminum wouldn't hold up as well as the stainless, and probably wouldn't look as good as long, but it would probably be better looking then the pipe. You may want to consider looking into plain perforated steel painted high temp silver or high temp black. I would think the steel would hold up to the heat and keep the form better then thin aluminum, and you may have more choices with the steel.
None of that perforated metal is cheap these days, heck, not even simple 20 gauge sheet metal is cheap anymore. Gene

Thanks for the reply/idea.Yes the angle is hard with a bolt on and is why I tried the rocker 1st.I can make a strap that would bolt to the top/bottom of the cover and clamp that maybe like you said and make the strap so the cover is level to the rocker.I have a 4x8'sheet of steel and a 48" box/pan brake to bend things nothing to roll with so why I have angles.I will look to copy the ss covers for sale mounting 1st.
Thanks again

I'd redo the bottom part of exhaust with SS oval tubing and a Supertrapp or a nascar style muffler and try to fancy it up vs trying to hide it with a panel attached to the rocker.

Thanks but if I redo it I would run it inside the frame like a normal header exhaust.

under the rocker test fit,look. This version looks like I can mount it to the seem and I will work on the outer edge holding it up on the rocker better as well as holding the pipe up.

That would work. You could clamp it in place and drill 3 or 4 holes through the flange to run bolts through. Once the holes are drilled, you could put the bolts through the cover, and weld them in place, then stick the bolts through the holes in the rocker flanges, and slide on a washer and spin on a nut for each bolt from the back side where access is easy. You might not want that bottom bend to be quite 90 degrees, so water that might get in there can run out. I can't see how far under the pipe that bottom piece is, but you might not want it too wide (maybe about 1/2 the diameter of the pipe wide), the heat could escape better with a narrow bottom flange. Paint them with high temp paint, they could get hot through the summer.

I didn'thave a way to trim the bottom so I just left it for later and I will angle it down ty.I have been using 1/4"20thread bolts on the current hanger(3/4" strap about 14" long) so I will use the same hole,bolt/nut nyloc.I have a 3 1/2" exh because my engine has a blower(8-71 700 to 1k hp when I want)Thank you for your input!I need to start putting my blower back on so I will be working on the exh as I go.

Looks like that will work. Post up pictures of the finished product, please.

Why not just use side pipes?

There is no kit with 2 1/4 pri 3 1/2"collector pipesI looked at them at summit if that is what you are asking.I did buy some and test fit and didn't like the fit and returned them.

Another option would be to have the exhaust you already have Ceramic Coated.

A buddy just did that on the fenderwell headers on his big block Dart.
They looks awesome, and they were used crusty headers..

I've been thinking about having it done on the exhaust on our 69 Dart with fenderwell headers, the portion under the car looks really similar to what yours looks like other than flowmaster type mufflers.

This is the place that did his, I'm planning on seeing what it would cost.
Obviously not close to you, but it would be an idea of cost.
https://www.jcmmachineandcoatings.com/

A few thoughts:
1. That outlet location seems problematic that close to the driver's window: not only noise, but fumes.
2. I'd want to hide the exhaust rather than double-down on the visual focus.
3. Changing the collector so its exit is under the car may not be possible, and I don't know if exhaust gets frequently removed.
4. Using that collector, you could do a system similar to how the Maxies were: exhaust coming from collector a bit upstream of a capped-off collector exit.

The noise is music to me and I get enough flow at idle to push air away and a little race gas smell is no bother. I do mostly test drives and a few track days with the car and take it off and on for testing so the side pipes help with access and I am not re doing the collector to move the exh or I would have done it by now.My focus is on keeping it running for now but thank you for your input!

This is what I went with for now.I had trouble finding sheet metal sold to public during covid-19 Metal supermarket on Granger rd near Cleveland,Ohio

I think I'd use perforated stainless sheet for that.