Dragster Oil Pan: Swinging vs Stationary Pick-Up?!

On the dragster oil pan, which pick-up would be best, a swinging pick-up or stationary pick-up, everything else being fairly equal on the pans? If there is no advantage or need for the swinging pick-up, the stationary pick-up would save a few bucks, but I DO NOT want to sacrifice an engine over a few dollars! Thanks!!

With good baffles and doors .....stationary should be fine.

Thanks for the reply The oil pan with the stationary pick-up is about $200.00 cheaper,but if does not get the job done it can cause a lot of damage.

IF it does not have the good baffles and doors ... the motor can be prone to oil starvation.

Dragster pans are usually pretty shallow and dont have
alot of capacity... most are set up for a dry sump...
but if your running a wet sump I would go as deep as
possible with trap doors and baffles with a fixed
pick up(I hate those singing pick ups... they tend
to suck air and leak)

F/C pans are shallow, usually 3 X 5" deep, but the dragster pans are 6 X 6" deep and more than adequate in a wet sump application, if you have the room. I had the Moroso pan with single -20 stationary pickup in a 4.20 RED, never had any problems. I had a B-wedge altered about ten years ago with the F/C pan and had to go to accumulator to end shutdown starvation. I always thought the swinging pickup sucked air,never did like them.

Defiantly go swinging LOL
You will never have stability with a wet sump system in a dragster. I ran a Charlies pan, swinging pickup duel line, and on the big end when you pull the chute, or bomb the brakes you always have oil pressure flux.
By the time you add a accumulator, and a complete vacuum pump system, you have spent more money than a dry sump system, which can do it all..
You can scope out ebag for used Nascar Dry sump setups at a fraction of the cost of new ones. My last few engine have been external duel line systems, with added accumulators...
I wont go down that road again.
Go Drysump and have the ultimate setup, and save money if you plan to run the vacuum pump and accumulator is a must.
Charlies pan on my Indy motor

You are right Bob about the oil pressure,I run a Master Lube on mine but still it drops down to about 25 lbs before the master lube can kick in or the pressure comes back up.
Most all engines in mine & other cars I have drove,when you get on the brakes hard the pressure drops.I have a 2 part question on that for everyone..
1st. Does it hurt if it drops for just a second or two if it jumps back up?
2nd.Would not it help to put it in neutral at the end of the run when you come off the throttle? I have heard the Pro's & Con's of this forever.
Thanks for all the input so far everyone.

If you know exactly how the oil will behave, a fixed head works fine. One wrong guess = boom.
The purpose of any system is to keep the head submerged at all times, they just vary by method. Engines that can have a pump drive extension (SBC) can put the pump right in the oil.
Reason #1 for swinging failure: the pivot seals were loose, worn.
Reason #2: the sweep of head positions didn't cover the entire oil path. Some appear to have little foresight: pivot is almost directly above the head, with a short arm. This only works if the oil remains in the sump (which is the swept path).
Obviously, the best pivot is parallel to the oil level, and the swing-arm is very long so the intake always presents normally, but this isn't possible with some blocks, cranks, pan designs.

BTW, another advantage to dry sump: you can have as many individual pickup heads as you have scavenge modules (gear-set + container), since exposing one of them has no effect on the others. Design ooppsss is far safer.