installed powergllide...

I am not sure which flywheel and center hub you are using but there are different set ups. There are some where the hub goes onto the crank flange first and the flywheel on top of it. The others mount the flywheel first and hub second. The starter ring gear winds up in a different place when compared. Pictured are various hub adapters.
Some worked better when installed first rather than the flywheel. Nearly all required a spacer to pull the starter back from the wheel. In most cases the same size as the midplate.

they have come in different thicknesses

and various spacers came with them others are home made

Remove the spacer and shim to as suggested above. That is what I ended up doing on my small block and no issues at all. Chuck

some cranks have a "end" that is longer or shorter than others,pull the trans. and measure the distance (with flywheel on) from the face of the flywheel [tranny side] to the the back of the block. Then put the converter on the transmission. VERY IMPORTANT, make sure the converter is all the way on the snout. Then measure the distance from the transmission bell housing to one of the mounting pads on the converter. There should be only 1/8 of on inch of play difference. This 1/8" has to be longer than on the transmission side than the engine side. You might have to have the converter machined for the difference like I did. Also remember if you have to take material off the converter mounting pads you must also remove the same amount off the snout of the converter (the end that fits in the crankshaft or crankshaft spacer. You can also use a different crankshaft spacer to make up the difference. I milled the converter in my case

I've posted about this on small blocks before. Can't see why they would have done any better a job on BB's. Run a 1/4" mid plate. Make a new crank adapter 1/4" thicker or a 1/4" shim. Put it together and use 1/4" less shims. Worked for me. Then I got tired of chasing shims across the floor and made a starter shim or just tack the shims needed together.

Question though. Does ATI and Reid do a better job with all of this?

Oh and forget buying a midplate for a small block to space the starter as well as the bell. Why? JW put the starter in a different place than MOPAR. Make your own mid plate, problem solved.

Leon

I run an ATI SuperCase with ATI Bell. No starter issues at all. No shims required. bolted just like the factory.

Give me a shout when you are wrenching on this thing again. My brother and I both run 440 engines and built custom spacers. You definitly want to use the nose cone. LESS STRESS LESS HEADACHES>>>> Good luck. John EMAIL for my phone.....

If you need something made I have a milling machine

Let me know when you go to the track. I plan on going to US-60 fri night if the weather holds.

090 midplate

Hey good luck with the race....let us know how it turns out, got to be a wild time