Posted By: MR_P_BODY
Take A Look At This Nitrous Schematic - 12/31/10 02:19 AM
Guys take a look at this nitrous schematic... my buddy
want to run a dual stage nitrous set up... on a single
plate... see if there is a easier way to do it OR
if you see any problems
Thanks
Posted By: mopardad
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 02:29 AM
wouldn't you want to be able to purge with the system switch turned off, like at the end of a pass
Posted By: mopardad
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 02:38 AM
I also think that the wire feeding the WOT switch should not be fed via the relay (just the fuel pump)
I don't know about 2 stage N2O systems but do you shut off the first stage when the 2nd stage is activated ? it appears you are. Does the N2O retard have 2 wire activating it, that seems different from ones I have wired
Posted By: fasteddie
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 02:48 AM
I think I would also use a low fuel pressure switch so if fuel pressure dropped to a certain point it would shut down the entire system. Mine is wired into the arming switch ground wire.
Posted By: mopardad
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 02:51 AM
most people I know purge there system at the end of a pass with the switch turned off, the throttle switch is only controlling the relays so there is no real load on it
Posted By: smalltyredart67
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 03:24 AM
Mr. Pbody you need to ask this question over on the bullet. There's way more important considerations than how to wire the purge, in fact everything else is more important than the purge. I am the furthest thing in the world from a wiring guru but I've learned a few things along the way, one of them is forget the low pressure switch(hobbs), not worth the effort. What about the trans break? that needs to be able to interupt the relay to turn on the solenoids. Ask Monte Smith specificly here or ask over on Yellow Bullet and you'll prolly get differing answeres overthere, but most likely they'll be useable.
smalltyredart
jeff r
Posted By: smalltyredart67
Re: Take A Look At This Nitrous Schematic - 12/31/10 03:33 AM
start here:
www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251643My link-fu is bad sorry just copy and paste if this doesn't work
smalltyredart
jeff r
Posted By: smalltyredart67
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 03:40 AM
look up^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
smalltyredart
jeff r
sorry it looks like all those are for trans brakes, but some include digisets so it's not a total bust.
Posted By: NITROUSN
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 03:42 AM
I like to run a rpm activated window switch. Keeps it from being activated at to low of an rpm and will shut it down just before the rev limiter.
Posted By: 602heavy
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 03:42 AM
I've always activated 2nd stage off the 'constant live' supply on throttle switch , throttle switch live supply is activated by normally closed side of fuel pressure switch , as soon as arming switch is armed i have the ability to purge through the motor using 2nd stage , i also have 2nd stage on a button on steering wheel.
Posted By: n20mstr
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 03:49 AM
Mr P
mAke sure the purge works all the time, the reason for this is you need a ball valve in the car. You open the valve right after the burnout and close it on the return road. After closing you want to purge the line so there is no load on the plungers in the nitrous solenoids. this makes the plungers last a lot longer and they are designed that the nitrous goes behind them and keeps them on the seat. If you have the ball valve in the car you are only loading the plunger for 10-30 seconds depending on how fast the car is and how fast you close the valve...Thats a lot better than having the bottle on and there is pressure on them for hour or more, in the lanes driving back etc
Posted By: 602heavy
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 04:34 AM
Always used a low pressure switch , NEVER had an issue , as long as the switch is installed & wired correctly no probs , many different wireing variations to get the same result.... know a guy spraying 400 shot that forgot to turn on fuel pump , turns out he bypassed pressure switch.
.......motor survived for another season.
Posted By: Leon441
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 11:09 AM
I always run a low fuel pressure switch. That's up to you. If you do just be sure to install it on the high pressure side of the regulator. The pressure deviates too much on the low side and would just be a headache as the switch will blip when the fuel pressure has the slightest stumble. The real protection is a fuel pump taking an unexpected dive.
The retard appears to be hooked only to the first stage of nitrous. It needs to be at least a two stage retard and be hooked to both stages. Depending on the type of retard as in how it needs to be wired. Digital retard work different.
Posted By: 602heavy
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 02:44 PM
Sure looks like you are running a multi stage retard box the way those wires are hooked up to both stages........something like an MSD8790?...........ask you're buddy he may confirm.
Leon , you are dead on regards those pressure switches fluctuating when solinoid opens/closes , even more so when pulsing solinoids , fitted correctly i've had no issues , bear in mind i use large spreads (high pressure fuel)
Posted By: Monte_Smith
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 08:15 PM
Not the way I would do it, but that does not make it wrong. I like things, especially wiring, very simple. That said, I would wire my relays, with 12v to post 30 and out to the solenoids from post 87. This makes the relays hot all the time, with clean power. You wire the ARM switch, to put power to the WOT switch. The WOT switch, then triggers post 85 on relay 1 and can also trigger the timer, that turns on relay 2. The timing retards can either tie into the outputs from the relays, post 87, or can tie into the trigger, which is post 85. Ground post 86 on the relays. You can also tie the "hot" to the purge button, onto the arm switch. This way, if the purge won't work, you know you are not armed. I personally never use hobbs switches, never seen the purpose of one, plus they tend to cause problems with surging systems.
Monte
Posted By: MR_P_BODY
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 12/31/10 08:56 PM
Thanks... I will pass this info on to him... its the
guy you meet on drag week with the 52 ford PU...
he's still trying to break stuff
Posted By: Leon441
Re: Take A Look At This Schematic - 01/01/11 03:52 AM
Some timers can be used in place of a relay. Such as an ARC unit.
I monitered my nitrous activation through the retard on the 7531 so I had data as to whether the hobbs ever caused any issues. Running 25PSI to the regulator and having a hobbs switch set at only 7psi installed in that part of the fuel system you will never see any blips on the hobbs. It is when people installed them according to NOS directions on the low side with only 5.5psi in the tuneup you have issues. I tried this and even at 2psi on the hobbs switch it would blip the activation circuit. This is when Steve Johnson and Richard Omally both explained to me that it needed to be on the high side if I wanted to use one. Never had an issue sense. In fact I had a fuel pump take a dive just before staging. The nitrous wouldn't work. I was pissed to say the least until I saw the fuel pressure gauge and got the car out of the way while there was some hint of fuel in the float bowls.
Monte you make a good point on the wiring of the relays. You would never want to run solenoid current through a microwsitch. Switches when failing can do two things stick closed or open. Nitrous activation is not a good place for a stock switch. Be very careful when purchasing these relays. Some are absolute junk. The ones that advertise 40A ratings are pretty good. You are better off to go to a junkyard and get relays out of the fuse box under the hood of a late model car. Most I have seen are a lot heavier built.