Posted By: 80arrow
R3 block questions - 11/03/10 12:45 AM
I know that there are 59* r3 blocks and 48* r3 blocks my questions are...
1 The degree just refers to the lifter bore, correct, the rest of the block is the same?
2 Are there different heights of the blocks?
3 Are all 48* blocks 340 mains?
4 Which of the 48* blocks are best for procharging?
Thanks, Clint
Posted By: Hitman340
Re: R3 block questions - 11/03/10 12:59 AM
I have done a Procharged SB and on the next one I do It would be a 48* non-simese. The 48* gives you better valve train geometry if you have the heads that will allow you to do so.The reason I would go non-Simese is for the extra cooling around the cylinders if you intend to street drive it at all.
Posted By: Leon441
Re: R3 block questions - 11/03/10 01:01 AM
1 The degree just refers to the lifter bore, correct, the rest of the block is the same?
Yes
2 Are there different heights of the blocks?
Yes, 8.800"-9.600"
3 Are all 48* blocks 340 mains?
Not sure, most all 48 degree blocks will be 340 main but may take a 360 pan depending on the rear cap used.
4 Which of the 48* blocks are best for procharging?
All are great but the R3 with siamesed cylinder bores and 18 head bolts is the strongest. 9.600" deck is prefered to give more room for a dished piston with stroker crank.
Posted By: fishy340
Re: R3 block questions - 11/03/10 04:51 AM
clint get a tall deck 48deg siamese block,and u can procharge n fog it at the same time,,there mint blocks.
Posted By: fishy340
Re: R3 block questions - 11/03/10 04:52 AM
o yea and any w series head above the w5 requires 48deg block w7,w8,w9 etc
Posted By: 80arrow
Re: R3 block questions - 11/03/10 12:17 PM
Would a person be able to use Edlebrocks or Indy-1 's on a 48* block? Whats to cost on a 48* tall deck block, roughly?
Posted By: fishy340
Re: R3 block questions - 11/03/10 01:47 PM
u can get a 48deg block,i see em all the time brandy new for about 2500,u will find em 2000 or so on diff web sites..and yes u can use a 59deg head on it,it requires some work though
Posted By: theclutcher
Re: R3 block questions - 11/03/10 02:05 PM
some 9" decks had 2.250 mains (small ford) and 60 mm cam journals.
something noticable the cam is bigger than the crank.
also some were made with 47 degree lifter angle.
9" deck is cross drilled between siamised cylinders for additional cooling.
I would think they all are suitable for procharging, regardless of deck height.
depends on cost, tall deck hard to find?
Posted By: Hitman340
Re: R3 block questions - 11/04/10 01:17 AM
If you have not yet bought a block you might even think about a new XR block from Kent Ritter like I just bought.
jeff nice block did it come with the lifter bushings?
Posted By: Hitman340
Re: R3 block questions - 11/04/10 01:21 AM
Your getting more for your money and when we went to pick it up he helped us with a lot of other things while we were there.
Posted By: 80arrow
Re: R3 block questions - 11/04/10 02:01 AM
Jeff that looks sweet, what was the cost if you don't mind me asking? You can pm me if you want about it. Thanks guys, keep the info coming, Clint
Posted By: Hitman340
Re: R3 block questions - 11/04/10 03:09 AM
I think the cost before all the extras I ask for was right at 3,000. Kent was very helpful and told us if we ever need anything just call and if he can help he will.And it was a blast going on a tour threw all his shops.Before I bought anything I would take the time to call and talk to Kent and then make a choice thats best for you and your needs.
Posted By: tubtar
Re: R3 block questions - 11/04/10 03:57 AM
If you are buying one from a private party and not able to lay eyes on it , make sure that it has provisions for wet sump oiling if you intend to go down this road.
Some also came with no motor mounts and some had lightening holes in the bell housing area than may prove problematic for tech if you go drag racing with it.
Cam bores are for R-3 ony babbit bearings , 50 m.m. roller and 60 m.m. roller.
I haven't seen SBF mains , but it doesn't surprise me at all.
The book " How to build big inch small block MoPars " goes into a lot of R-3 details.
Shady Dell's web site has a lot of info on them and the W heads too.
I believe Indy 360's can be had with the extra head bolt bosses too.
I like what I am seeing from the Ritter camp.
Very nice indeed.
Posted By: 80arrow
Re: R3 block questions - 11/04/10 12:31 PM
The wet sump oiling is a good thing to keep in mind.
Posted By: Hitman340
Re: R3 block questions - 11/04/10 01:13 PM
Kent offers you many options,Wet or dry sump,All cam brgs ops.Tall or short deck.Not sure about the main options thats something I did not ask aboout.You can go with a std 10 bolt head,18bolt or Relocated for P7 heads.AND HE HAS PLENTY OF THOSE!!!Im not selling blocks for Kent but only trying to inform my fellow Mopar friend of a good thing.
Posted By: theclutcher
Re: R3 block questions - 11/04/10 04:35 PM
2nd that.
Kent is the one to deal with.
Posted By: HEMIDARTS
Re: R3 block questions - 11/04/10 05:48 PM
Kent knows his stuff, and has plenty of it laying around.
That block is a masterpiece. And its done right the first time.
Posted By: mafo
Re: R3 block questions - 11/04/10 09:19 PM
do you have any info on weight?
ritter vs R3
Posted By: Hitman340
Re: R3 block questions - 11/05/10 12:20 AM
We did weigh it and with a 4.150 bore I think is was right at 211lbs and my new R block w/3.91 bore was 206lbs.
Posted By: S/ST 3040
Re: R3 block questions - 11/05/10 12:52 AM
It was.......
XR block.
9.610" deck
50mm cam tunnel
340 mains
Wedge bolt pattern
225 lbs with 4.150 bores
R block (water)
9.560" deck
Std babbit 48º
340 mains (Diamond 4-bolt caps)
220 lbs. with 3.900" bores
Posted By: Hitman340
Re: R3 block questions - 11/05/10 02:20 AM
Thanks Vic,I guess thats why Your building the engine and I stick to the Fab work.
Posted By: RyanJ
Re: R3 block questions - 11/05/10 02:34 AM
XR2 (P7 heads) 3.89 bore, 9.20 deck 237 lbs....
The XR2's are little heavier than the XR1's due to 6 journal cam & few other things specialized to it.
It's since been CNC lightened & bushed for Keyway Jesels & taken to 9.08 deck & 4.175 bore. I'll have it out of CNC & get some pics & a final weight on it here in couple days & will post.
The XR blocks are most definitely heavier than an R series block. Kent's ritter racing logo alone is probably 2 LBS LOL
Both blocks are good pieces, but until a few things are cleaned up on the XR's & as long as the R3's are still readily avail I'll continue using R3's. I've got 6 new latest generation siamese 48* tall deck R3's in shop @ moment, all for "big" inch combo's this winter. The last generation of 673AD R3 blocks have really proven to be great pieces, MP cleaned up & fixed almost all notorious issues with them, & other than a little tight on the cam tunnels, these things have proven to be great blocks to work with lately.
On the billet main cap deal I think they are a little over-rated to be honest now that I've seen some big power nodular iron cap stuff live just fine for couple years under harsh abuse. I have a N20 434 inch W9 motor in shop right now that was never dynoed, but runs 9 teens on motor & has been 5.20's 1/8, 8.20's 1/4 on a 300 shot in a 5 speed Liberty car, steel rod motor so it "shocks" bottom end pretty hard on the spray.... Block has about 275 passes on it.... Stock R3 4 bolt 340 main nodular caps & ARP Studs... does not exhibit any unusual cap walk (more than you'd expect) & so far no cap problems.
Not saying the nodular caps are the greatest thing out there, but I think too many people think they need Billet caps when they probably don't, although overkill rarely hurts. Real difference in cost of the XR VS R3 is purely sitting in those main caps. I just wish Kent could have found a way to do iron caps for a lower $ version & offered the billet caps as an upgrade & get the XR in the $2400-$2500 range, they would sell way better. I know it sounds stupid, but that extra $500 turns off alot of prospective customers, even on a $20K engine build, people are weird sometimes.
But from what I've seen basically any R3, or XR block will take more power than you can ever put through them. I've yet to see a race block fail by itself... always something else goes wrong inside engine to hurt one.
