Best way to flush a converter?

That's what I figured, and neither one of these(an 84 truck converter and an old GER(that works good!) is worth doing that. Thanks.

Just drill a small hole and drain out the fluid.Then fill the converter up with mineral spirits and dump it again.Then weld up the hole,grind the weld down flush,then put a converter cap on the neck and a radiator hose clamp and punch a hole in it and pressureize it with a blow gun,put some atf on the weld spot and look for any bubbles coming from the weld area.This will make sure you have a good weld and it wont leak.if you see any bubbles your weld is leaking and you are going to want to grind it deeper and reweld it again.

If you're going to drill a drain hole you might as well take the extra time and tap it for a drain plug. Grease the drill and tap to help prevent shavings from entering. The early converters were tapped 1/8" NPT but they changed to 1/16" NPT in the mid seventies.

I've seen converters cut open after flushing with commercial flushing machines with the air blast feature and you'd be amazed at how much gunk is left (some of it loose).

The only to get it really clean is to cut it open.

Just a thought-how much pressure in the line out to the cooler and back? Might be a good place for a temporary filter?

Well, as it turned out they both had drain plugs on the face of them, so I drained them. GER looked quite clean, the truck conv somewhat brown. I replaced the plugs and filled with kerosene. With them laying face down I then used a spare front pump assembly(unrebuilt) and installed it to hold the sprag and spun it back and forth vigorusly. Then I installed a spare input shaft and spun that as well. With the face down over a bucket, I quickly removed the drain plug and applied compressed air, boiling the kerosene inside. This creates a vapor, so be careful. I then drained them. Both of these trans will be run in on an engine stand; usually I simply run a line from the out to cooler line right back into the return port, as there's no real load on the tranny. I think I will install a clear plastic fuel type filter in that line to see what I catch. The rear drum and support was lost on the stand the very same way, but I'm thinking either the damage was already there and I didn't catch it, or there may have been a mess of crap in the line that I used, as the converter came out real clean. Odd thing was, most of the damage was to the drum bearing surface, not the support itself.

I agree the only way to make sure you get all the junk out is to cut it open. But with what you have going on I think you will be okay with what your doing. Well except for that Filter part.

Thats a good idea but what do you have planned for a Filter. There is a good amount of flow going through those lines with alot of pressure. When you say one of those clear filter types I picture one of those cheap gas inline filters. I hope thats not the case .mike

Edit I Reread and see you stated the fuel type clear filters. No , Im positive that wont work. I like your idea though. The oil is much to thick and the pressure will be to high IMO. You will POP those filters like a balloon IMO. mike

That what I figured; I'll figger something out, Lol!

Here's an inexpensive filter designed for the job:

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/mercha...e=inline-filter

Thanks, John.!

You can try some stuff called fleet, worked for me for my colonoscopy, flushed me out but good .....JK...Phill

Anything that will come out of a hole drilled in the side of a converter will also come out the hub. Mark, I trashed a few 904`s and replaced them at the track. Just sparyed brake clean in the converter shook it and turned it over.Never had a converter get hurt breaking a sprag in the trans.

That bulkpart link has reasonable prices on kits too but last time I got an order it was drop shipped from another supplier and they goofed and left the invoice showing what bulkpart(Makco Distributing) paid. I dont have the link here at home,its at work if intrested.